Dean- We ran into this pressure plate problem when our sintered bronze
clutch disc decided to eat up the pressure plate at the track. Bottom line
(not to bore you with unnecessary tales), most 'cheap' parts suppliers stock
Jap or chinese replacement parts. THEY DON'T FIT. We wound up getting ours
from IPW (Imported Parts Warehouse) out of CA. They only work with retailers
(my brother is in the M-B repair business) so the common folk don't have a
chance with them. Try telling your garage who did the work, and see if they
can get you a pressure plate for the next time you pull it out.
Mark Haynes
'65 Spit 1300 Racer RMVR #162
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Dean Dashwood [SMTP:DDashwood@softwright.co.uk]
> Sent: Friday, June 04, 1999 4:43 AM
> To: 'Spitfire List'
> Subject: Gearbox update
>
>
> I said I'd update the list re. my gearbox, so here goes:
>
> To recap: when my gearbox blew up last week, I decided to get a
> reconditioned unit from John Kipping, and getting a local (non-LBC)
> garage to fit it. I also asked them to check the clutch while the
> gearbox is off.
>
> The garage checked the clutch as I asked, it was worn almost right down
> - certainly worth changing. They ordered a clutch from their local
> supplier, fitted that and the recon gearbox, and road-tested - the
> clutch was not releasing properly. After a while, they discovered that
> the cover plate on the new clutch was a lot thicker than the one that
> came off the car. They assumed they'd been supplied the wrong part, so
> they went back to their supplier - no, that's definitely the right one.
> So they tried another supplier - who delivered the same, too-thick
> cover.
>
> Eventually, they decided to use the old cover - it was only the friction
> plate and release bearing that really needed replacing. So the question
> is - did both of the garages supplier send them the same wrong part
> (unlikely) or does my car have a different cover to standard (why would
> anyone do this)?
>
> Ok, so clutch problems sorted out (albeit with some questions
> unanswered) I got the car back - with the reverse light and overdrive
> not working. I took the tunnel off and found that all the wiring had
> been connected wrongly. Took me a minute or two with a multi-meter to
> figure out what goes where, but eventually got it all straightened out.
>
> Now, the reverse light works fine, and overdrive works fine in 3rd gear
> - but doesn't work at all in 4th. I got out the multi-meter to figure
> out what's going on, and here's what I found. Gearstick in 3rd gear -
> 12v across the overdrive switch. Gearstick in neutral, but pushed over
> towards 3rd/4th gear - 12v. Push the gearstick into 4th, and you get
> 12v as the syncro-mesh engages, but 0v as it actually goes into gear.
>
> So, is this a problem with the way the gearbox was fitted, a faulty
> gearbox, a faulty inhibitor switch, or something else I haven't thought
> of?
>
> I regret letting the garage do this now - the extra time/cost involved
> negated all the reasons I decided not to do it myself. Next time, I
> don't think I'll bother!
>
> Anyway, the gearbox itself seems fine - the gearchanges are a tiny bit
> stiff, but not a hint of groaning on any gearchange. But this is what
> you'd expect immediately after fitting it - it's how it holds up over
> time that counts! I'll update the list again after I've done a bit of
> mileage. In the meantime, if anyone has any answers to the questions,
> I'd appreciate it!
>
> Dean Dashwood
> '77 Spit 1500
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