Jim,
In order to replace the bellows you need to remove the tie rod ends (outer)
from the tie rod ends (inner, on the rack). I've found that once I've
loosened the locknut against the outer tie rod that I can spin the inner rod
end with a set of vice grips. It's a good idea to run tape around the inner
rod end right at the jam nut before you start dissasembly so you can get the
alignment back to where it belongs.
You'll find that the job is much easier if you can raise at least on front
wheel, as you'll be reallly increasing toe-out as you do this job! It's
better if you can support both sides of the front end.
Properly the rack should be lubricated with 90wt oil. A messy but simple
way to get the oil in is to partially fill a boot from the big end just
before you slide it onto the rack. The zerk fitting in the rack is supposed
to be used to add oil to the rack, not grease as Americans know it. Same
story for the lower trunnions, so while you're there.......
Feel free to email me off-list for further clarification.
Cheers!
Jim
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-spitfires@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-spitfires@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Jim Dwyer
> Sent: Tuesday, June 01, 1999 5:34 PM
> To: Spitfires (E-mail)
> Subject: I need tips on replacing the Steering Rack Bellows
>
>
>
> I am about to replace both steering rack bellows and I am looking for tips
> to do the job properly and smoothly.
>
> Do I have to raise the wheel to replace the bellows?
> I do not have a balljoint splitter tool but a mechanic says you
> can hit the
> lower arm sideways to release the joint, will this work?
> Any ideas on how to clean up the steering gear before replacing the new
> bellows?
> Do I have to pump lube into the bellows once I replace them?
> If so, how do you do that and what lube should I use?
> Any other tips would be helpful.
>
> Thanks
>
> Jim Dwyer
> London Ontario
> jmdwyer@home.com
> http://members.home.net/jmdwyer
>
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