Douh Braun wrote,
> Will a reasonably beefy four-jaw gear puller be sufficient for getting
> the hub off?
Richard Stieg replied,
> you may want to remvoe both axles and take 'em to a machine shop.
> WARNING: some listers have had hubs destroyed in the removal process.
As with so much else, the key here is to use the right tool. You with
the wrong tool will either fail to get the hub off, or bend the axle, or
both. A machine shop will probably get the hub off, but if they don't
have the right tool they'll probably bend the axle in the process.
The right tool is Churchill S109C, or equivalent. It's a bell-shaped
deal. The open end is machined flat, and has holes in it ingeniously
spaced to match the wheel lug pattern. The closed end has a standard
bearing puller thread, with matching standard puller screw. This
arrangement assures that the force will be perfectly aligned with the
axle.
Remove the axle nut and washer, then bolt the tool firmly to the hub,
using the wheel lugs and lug nuts (if the holes in the flange are
dimpled) or grade 8 3/8 x 24 nuts (if flat). Then start turning the
screw. Presto! Well, not exactly. It's going to require serious torque
to break the sucker free. Make sure the screw is clean and well
lubricated.
While you're in there, you probably want to change the bearings. Before
you go in, make sure the seal is truly shot- clean up the grease and
drive 100 miles, then check again.
Now the only question is where to find an S109C...
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