Glenn,
It is (obviously) much easier to remove it when the engine is still in
the car. The nut has the typical "lefty-loosey, righty-tighty"
threads. I have heard of people wedging their breaker bar against
something and bumping the starter, but I don't recommend that.
If the engine is out of the car, I have found that if you wedge a big
screwdriver between one of the starter ring gear of the flywheel,
through the starter hole on the transmission flange plate, you can
sufficiently keep the thing from spinning.
Another trick is to pull the pan and wedge a 2x4 block between the
crankshaft and the side of the engine block.
Once the engine is kept from rotating, you can then get a 1 13/16 socket
(3/4") drive and a humongous breaker bar, then add a sturdy pipe onto
that. Put plenty of weight on it and pray that the socket doesn't
break.
If you want a real test of resources, try removing the rear hubs from an
early Volkswagen Beetle. I broke a breaker bar on my daughter's.
Regards,
Joe Curry
Glenn Trunnell wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> Due to a knocking rod bearing in my Spit I'm trying to get my spare motor
> rebuilt over the next couple of weeks, I cannot get the #$%^& nut off the
> end of the crankshaft though! Is this nut reverse threaded by any chance?
> There is no locking tab and I have tried and broken two tools so far trying
> to remove this thing, I don't have an impact wrench, is that the only way?
> Why in the hell is this thing so tight? Any advice will be greatly
> appreciated!
>
> Thanks,
> Glenn
--
"If you can't excel with talent, triumph with effort."
-- Dave Weinbaum in National Enquirer
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