To Bud, Pete and Aprille, and list:
FWIW, extraction of the 6 cyl motor from ANY TR or spit chassis can be done
alone - Uri Geller need not apply. Air tools should.
Wit ha sufficiently long set of extension bars, you need not bury your head
in the pedals to remove the bolts. With practice, the interior comes out
of a TR6 in about 15 minutes, a GT in about 20 (radio fit is a bit trickier
under the padded dash trim).
Use dumdum (body seam sealer in rope form, sorta like plasticine) or blutack
(John M, household equivalent?) inside the 1/2" box end wrench. Fit a piece
such that the substance gets the wrench well "stuck" to the nut. Then have
at it from the other side with the air wrench.
Lacking air, similar effect (albeit slower) is made simply by holding the
extension in place while ratcheting the wrench.... once the wrench has
lodged against either the block or bulkhead, you want it moving as little as
possible.
On re-installation, fit the nuts on the engine side. You can "degrease
them" before your next pull (it WILL be WHEN, not IF), and the wrench will
almost never fall off a nut with threads of the bolt protruding whereas it
will fall off the shallower bolt head.
Universal joint sockets (not a u joint attached to a socket - too bulky)
will even allow TR6 starter removal with little effort.
Ask me how I know this - it takes more than both hands to count the R/R jobs
I have done on friend's and my own cars. My GT6 tranny removal record is 37
minutes from lights on to top off on the workbench. TR6 record is 1 hour 15
min (but that was before about 6 GT removals)
Dave T
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