Be sure to check for play at the steering rack coupling. It can give a lot of
play and can be just a loose bolt. The bolts may seem tight, but it the
steering shaft moves without moving the rack, tighten the bolts at the
coupling as much as you can using a hand wrench. This was a significant
problem with mine and others on the list, even after a total rebuild of the
front end.
Thanks,
Paul Mostrom
'77' Spitfire 1500
'Black holes, where God divided by zero......'
-----Original Message-----
From: jak0pab@jak10.med.navy.mil [mailto:jak0pab@jak10.med.navy.mil]
Sent: Tuesday, February 02, 1999 3:26 AM
To: Spitfires@autox.team.net
Subject: Front End Rebuild
I am preparing to rebuild the front end of my car (within a month... see
how long it takes me to do something, or save up for it). I have several
questions to try and determine how much I need to replace, remember I am on
a budget. If my bearings appear good, no noticeable scoring or marks and
they spin freely, is it ok to reuse them? Is it worth the extra cost to
use polyurethane bushings rather than stock rubber? In the Vicky Brit
Winter Special Catalog it shows (pg.52) Woodhead shock absorbers for
$29.95, any experience with these? How do I know if my coil springs are
still good, it seems that I as once told they should be 12inches tall,
uncompressed mine are probably closer to 16 (using the always accurate
eyeball rule).
Currently my steering wheel has about 15 to 20 degrees of freeplay in it,
what causes this. Do I need to replace my tie rods? What else is there to
inspect on the rack and pinion? Should I replace the rack and pinion
bushings? rubber/polyurethane? And finally the anti-sway bar, should I
replace its bushings with rubber/polyurethane? Do the end links wear and
should I replace them.
Is there anything else that I should take into consideration before doing
this?
Tons of thanks in advance!!
Patrick Bowen
'79 Spitfire
Jacksonville FL
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