Roger,
Thanks for the tips on rigging the outside door-locking linkage. At
present mine is just hanging - never connected courtesy of the DPO's
"mechanic" that replaced the door handle (the same guy that used an 8-penny
nail for the pivot-pin just inside the door-skin). BTW, the placement of
the weird clip-thingy that rides on the big cotter-pin can determine whether
the outside lock works right or not; a few days ago John Blair ("Mr. Morgan"
in Va. Beach) kindly shared his knowledge with me on properly
adjusting/moving the clip-thingy.
For my door-panel, like Huw Upshall, I used hardboard (with the old crap
as a template). Drilled the same holes (very, very light pressure on the
drill makes a fairly clean hole). My hardboard (which was left over from
some long-forgotten household project) is apparently 1/8" - a good, honest
1/8 (maybe 5/32?). My 1/4"/6mm staples (via Arrow staple-gun) didn't come
thru the opposite side of the board (pleasant surprise) and worked great.
Frankly, I opted for the hardboard and staple routine just because they were
here - didn't have any 3M adhesive, only a couple of cans of off-brand stuff
which hadn't done well for past projects.
My approach to this mini-project is slowly changing (influenced by Huw's
superb workmanship - and others). Whereas initially my goal was to just get
the hardware squared away and slap on a "presentable" door panel, now I'm
starting to think rolled-and-pleated? / tufted? / who knows? Will be
mulling over these various grandiose thoughts while awaiting clips,
lock-cylinders, and (hopefully) new nylon door-handle push-rods.
Ree Gurley in Silver Spring, MD - 78 Spit FM73070U O
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