At 10:21 AM 11/4/98 -800, Neil McAllister wrote:
>Hi Atwell,
>
>Thanks; I did get some answers but, and this one surprised me, no one gave me
>a position for the boot lid decal or any installation advice.
>
>The answers regarding the bonnet prop were, to say the least mixed.
>
>I'm giving up on the dimmer knob - must have been epoxied by a DPO.
>
>Love to hear from you.
OK, here goes:
Your Questions:
>>>
>>>Should I use gasket adhesive spray on my cork valve cover gasket?
&*%$#^ Stupid cork gaskets! Guaranteed to leak. That adhesive won't help
if they are shrunk.
Until Justin Wagner comes up with the neoprene/silicone ones, here's what I
recommend:
The "Right Stuff" by Permatex. This is a Gasket in a Can, it goops out
like a whipped cream aerosol. Put a nice bead around the valve cover, and
bolt it on; no leaking. Only downside is, you must re-apply it each time.
The can costs about $15 USD, enough to do several gaskets.
If you are a masochistic (sp?) originality freak, you'll be using the
original ill-fitting cork type. I've NEVER had one of these fit well, but
I'm told it helps if you simmer the gasket in hot water to soften and
expand it to the size of the valve cover. YMMV.
>>>
>>>Can someone send me the dimensions for the placement of the "Triumph
Spitfire
>
>>>1500" decal on the boot (trunk)?
Measured from my factory-installed boot decal:
The bottom edge of the "1500" is an even 50 MM from the bottom (trailing)
edge of the boot lid, left and right. The far right side of the "E" in
Spitfire is 71 MM from the RH side of the lid.
>Also, any installation tips (what should
>I
>>>use to remove the wax - without damaging Emma's aging paint? Etc...)?
These are generic decal instructions:
Do any paint polishing/color sanding in the decal area _before_ you apply
the decal. Use a cloth soaked in alcohol to remove any wax or residual
polishing compound.
Fill a spray bottle with _diluted_ dish soap and water. Spray it in the
decal area. The soapy water allows you to slide the decal around for
precise positioning. Then use a plastic squeegee (old credit cards work
nice) to work any bubbles or wrinkles from the middle to the outside.
When the decal is where you want it, let the soapy water dry for a few hours.
I assume the new letters come on an overlay sheet, to maintain the
positioning of each letter relative to each other?
>>>How do you remove the plastic dimmer knob from the switch shaft? I've
tried
>
>>>everything except nuclear devices.
Mine just came off with a gentle tug. The shaft is hex-shaped.
Perhaps a very small open end wrench (the size of the shaft) would
'persuade' it to come off without breakage? Good luck.
>>>
>>>Finally, (the daily double bonus question) I think the DPO misinstalled the
>
>>>hood prop. Mine doesn't lock automatically into place; I have to move it
>the
>>>last inch or so by hand.
Are they SUPPOSED to automatically lock in place? I have to push the center
down to 'lock' it too. Even then, a gentle breeze can blow the bonnet
closed. (Don't ask me how I know; suffice to say that now I vise-grip the
prop open at car shows.)
> Should the long straight shaft be at the bottom?
The piece with the welded limiter belongs on the bottom section. The
limiter stays on TOP of the upper rod.
>
>>>And which side of the bottom bracket (engine or outside) should
>the
>>>shaft be on (mine's on the outside)?
Wrong way, Castrol-breath! The rod goes on the engine side, forward hole.
My hardware fixings look like this:
Bolt head >flat washer>bottom bracket>spacer washer 1/2" long>prop rod>flat
washer>nyloc nut . --- this side towards engine>>>>>
[BTW the same hardware is at the middle joint and upper fixing too.]
Hope this helps you out, Neil. If you require any clarification let me
know. (But I warn you -- I don't do ASCI II art...)
Cheers,
Atwell Haines
'79 Spitfire FM96062 UO
Succasunna, NJ USA
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