One thing that I have found handy when installing the seals is to lay
the seal on top of the opening where is is to be installed and mark the
indentations where the clips go by placing a piece of black plastic
electrical tape on the pained outer part of the door.
This will show you immediately where the clips are to go when the seal
is in it's proper location. Otherwise, the indentations are not
visible.
When you are done, the tape is easily removed.
Joe
Michael Graziano wrote:
>
> Mike
>
> This is how I changed the window seals on my Midget last week. Only, since
>I was there anyway, I
> simply took off the door panel and inner door opening seals (plastic w/
>silicone) to make things
> easier. THe metal I used was a piece of steel from the mounting bracket of
>an old electric ceiling
> fan. I made a 1/4" bend on the bottom with my vice and hammer, and a
>gradual bend bottom up, sorta
> like a check mark.
>
> Like Sam said, just hold the clip in place by placing the bracket with the
>clip inside the
> checkmark and lining it up below the marks on the new seal. Pull up tightly
>on the bracket, and
> push down hard on the seal to ensure you get a good firm grip against the
>rubber and door lip,
> otherwise the clips will rattle loose. If your old rubber is pretty shot
>(Mine was 3/4 crumbled),
> then you may want to buy a new set of clips. Mine were all rusty from water
>that escaped past the
> seal, and I had a few breaks quite easily. Thankfully, I bought new
>(inexpensive) ones before
> hand. If you're doing this, and assuming spits have the same, I also
>changed the felt on the
> inside of the window (opposite the rubber seal) since they were shot as well.
>
> While there, I also snugged up my window crank, door latch and handle, and
>greased the inner
> workings with white lithium grease (handle and latch) and some thick gold
>colored bearing grease
> that's been in my garage for thirty something years (window crank mechanism
>and track).
>
> Good luck.
>
> Mike
> '78 RB Midget 1500
> '87 PB 300ZX 3000
>
> Sam Gentry wrote:
> >
> > My son did this job on his Spitfire and I watched. I just did it on my GT6
> > and it was easy. Here goes:
> >
> > get the old stuff out any way you can. It can be a pain, you may have to
> > cut it into pieces, but get it out. In the process watch the clips and
> > DON'T let them fall inside the door. I lost one on each door. If you do
> > all is not lost, take the rear part of the door panel off reach inside and
> > pick them up from the bottom of the door.
> >
> > Get something like a thin piece of metal or rod (no more than 1/16 inch or
> > so) that can be bent, but is strong. I used a piece of steel rod. Bend a
> > hook in the end that will hook around the clips and pull them back up on
> > the lip. Check that the clips line up with the places on the seal for the
> > clips (you will see them). Start at one end, hook your "hook tool" over
> > the clip and pull up while you press the seal flange into the clip. It
> > will go in fairly easy. Next clip, etc.
> >
> > Took me 10 minutes on the first one and 5 minutes on the second and that is
> > on a GT6 so I had to trim the length.
> >
> > Sam
> >
> > At 04:09 PM 11/2/1998 -0500, Michael Thomas wrote:
> > >Anybody have any advice on the changing the outer door window seals?
> > >Removal of the old ones without losing clips into the door? Replacement
> > >of the new ones without losing clips into the door?
> > >
> > >Thanks!
> > >
> > >Mike
> > >'75 Spit
--
"If you can't excel with talent, triumph with effort."
-- Dave Weinbaum in National Enquirer
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