Here is a compilation of the responses that I recieved after my request for
help in trying to replace the turn signal handle knob. My attempt and
results are at the end.
=====
Mike Passaretti wrote :
I tried this, and had mixed success. I stuck it in the
freezer for a few hours and then put the plastic part
in warm-to-hot water. The busted one came off fine, the
good one would have been OK, but I twisted it wrong when
it was 2/3 of the way off, and I snapped it. YMMV.
=====
Bob Bailey wrote :
You should be able to tap the end off of the spare switch. If you can
put the spare switch in a vise without damaging it and use a piece of
wood & a hammer. Position the wood like you would use a chisel and tap
(softly at first) it should work. Once removed the opening can be
enlarged and it can be glued on to switch to be repaired, or it can be
tapped on.
=====
Dave Korzun wrote :
Highly doubtful. Best bet if you're trying to avoid removing and replacing
the one in the car would be to make a mold of the good one, and make a
replacement out of epoxy with fiberglass for strength. After you've
successfully manufactured one, break off the rest of the plastic from the
one in the car, get the diameter, and drill out the replacement, finally
epoxy it in place.
=====
Malcom Walker wrote :
I don't think it would be easy to get the plastic knob off, they're
holding on pretty tight after 30 years of intimate contact. Also there
are grooves in the turn signal stalk that provide grip.
Might want to try dunking it in hot water (not too hot!) and seeing if you
can get the plastic to soften/grow a bit.
=====
I tried two different approaches. First I got my 6" adjustable wrench and
adjusted it so that it just fit the shaft with a snug fit, I also picked up my
8
oz ball peen hammer. With the first switch I started by leaving this donor
switch in the freezer for a few hours. Then I started a pot of water boiling.
After removing the switch from the freezer I dunked the tip in the hot water
for 15 or so and then removed. Taking the adjustable wrench I slipped it
over the shaft and used the hammer to try and hammer the tip off. This try
failed miserably. I'll explain why in a moment.
The second attempt went remarkably well and worked just fine. Basically I
did the same as above only no freezing and no boiling water. All I did was
used the adjustable wrench and hammer to drive the tip off. I actually did
attempt while the first one was still in the freezer. I was just trying to set
the wrench right and see how I would have to be holding things when I
made the attempt on the first switch. Needless to say I was quite surprised
when it came off in my hand.
I'm fairly certain however the reason the freezing/heating method didn't
work and the other method did was because of the switch stem itself. On
the switch I tried heating and cooling the part of the stem that was in the tip
was knurled. On the switch that the tip came off of the stemp tip was
splined. The splines just allowed the tip to slide right off whereas the
knurling did its job and kept the tip from sliding.
The switch with the knurling was a later model turn signal switch and the
switch with the splines was probably a later 60's column lighting switch.
My original switch on the TR4 had the knurled stem. I suppose its possible
that all turn signal switches had the knurling and the light switches had the
splines. Thats just a guess of course.
At least for my I now have a tip that I can put onto my original chrome
stemmed turn signal switch. If you have some switches laying around its
worth a try.
It sure would be nice though if someone would just start reproducing those
tips. I wouldn't think it would be hard to do.
Hope this helps someone else out there.
Brad (Lincoln Nebraska 402-464-1502)
1964 Spitfire4 BFC25720L
1966 TR4A CT72398L (Now a parts car)
1961 TR4 CT288L (Now with OD!!)
1959 TR3 TS41311L (Rusting Hulk)
1951 Dodge Truck 82217766 B-3-B-108
|