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Re: [Shotimes] Speedo/odometer problem

To: shotimes@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shotimes] Speedo/odometer problem
From: "Adam Phillips" <adambant@hotmail.com>
Date: Fri, 06 Oct 2006 17:47:47 -0400
So since i dont have a speedo, can anyone give me a rough RPM to MPH 
correlation?  35mph, 50 mph, and 80mph would be about all i really need. 
Thanks!


Adam Phillips
Trenton, NJ
92 White MTX
148k? mods






>From: krazgeo@comcast.net
>To: "Adam Phillips" <adambant@hotmail.com>
>CC: shotimes@autox.team.net,<shotimes@autox.team.net> (SHOTimes)
>Subject: Re: [Shotimes] Speedo/odometer problem
>Date: Mon, 02 Oct 2006 07:44:34 +0000
>
>  -------------- Original message ----------------------
>From: "Adam Phillips" <adambant@hotmail.com>
> > i
> > barely brushed the speedo cable coming out of the tranny with my 
>forearm,
> > and the plastic part kinda fell apart and disconnected. ... worked again 
>fine....till tonite when it dropped to zero on my
> > way home. Took a peek with the flashlight in the driveway, grabbed the 
>cable
> > and wiggled, hmm, nope, still all connected and snug like it shoud be. 
>So im
> > worried if somehow it stripped out whatever is inside the transmission? 
>If
> > this is the case, how crazy hard would that be to fix? Any ideas or
> > suggestoins please :) Thanx!
>
>Been there...done all of that.  Here's the scoop.
>
>The speedo drive gear is on a shaft that is inside the tranny case, and is 
>not removable without taking the whole tranny apart.  Several bearings are 
>lost as they must be destroyed to disassemble the case.  The replaceable 
>driven gear is on the bottom of the speed sensor, which is what the lower 
>short speedo cable plugs into.  The sensor's main purpose is to tell the 
>PCM whether the car is moving or not, for throttle control, and it is also 
>the source for the cruise control.   If there is binding in the speedo 
>cable, the gears will take the brunt of the punishment, and the drive gear 
>will wear rapidly.  The upper speedo cable tends to be overheated where it 
>approaches the EGR tube at the corner of the intake manifold, and will 
>disintegrate over time just above the joint between it and the lower cable. 
>  This will initally cause bouncing of the speedo needle, and ultimately 
>cause the cable to fail.
>
>If the speedo has suddenly quit, there either was binding somewhere in the 
>cable assembly, or it has partially popped out of the speed sensor.  The 
>way to test this is to remove the cable from the sensor by pulling it up, 
>then disconnecting the two cables and reconnecting the lower one to the 
>sensor.  This procedure takes the risk of further hurting the sensor and/or 
>gears further out of the equation.   With the car jacked up on one side, 
>preferably the right side for convenience, spin the front wheel either by 
>hand with a helper or use the engine at idle (with jackstands) to see if 
>the end of the cable is turning when the transmission is rotating.   If the 
>gears are OK, the top of the cable as it sticks out of the housing will 
>turn, and you will not be able to stop it with your fingers.  If it does 
>not turn, or you can stop it, your drive/driven gears are gone.  That 
>happened to me when I installed a Rock-Auto replacement speedo cable in my 
>car a year and a half ago.  I killed the
>  gears within 5 minutes of trying to drive it with the new cable.  With 
>the cable disconnected, I could still use the cruise, as the speed sensor 
>does not have enough drag to stop "my" gears from meshing.  But they do not 
>have the capability to turn the speedo, even with new proper Ford cables.  
>I used the tach as a speedo until the car retired a few months later.
>
>To everyone.....NEVER NEVER NEVER NEVER NEVER use a Rock Auto speedo cable. 
>  They are totally wrong...too long, too rigid, misdesigned, and will not 
>even connect to the speedo head...the plastic clip is the wrong dimension.  
>It's JUNK!!!!  I called them about it and the guy said "Send me pictures so 
>we can improve it".....never heard from him again.
>
>George

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