Hi Lee,
I don't remember seeing any of the motor mounts being torn or
broken. But, since they are rubber they may "losen up" without
actually tearing. I'm trying to decide if changing out the motor
mounts would allievate my problem to a large extent.
It's an easier place to start but still $300 or so in parts.
Thanks,
Ed
Leigh Smith wrote:
>Ed;
>If you suspect a torn motor mount, I would confirm that and replace that
>part first. It is much easier and less labor intensive and can be done with
>motor and subframe in the car. Basically just try to lift the engine, with a
>floor jack or similar, and watch carefully for lift and separation at the
>mount. And Yes; a torn mount willl give you some strange clutch chatter, or
>exaggerate any chatter that may be present. That may or may not be your
>whole problem, but it is a much easier place to start.
>Lee
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Edward Mazurek" <emazurek@cisco.com>
>To: <shotimes@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Wednesday, May 31, 2006 4:54 PM
>Subject: [Shotimes] Re: Problems after clutch job...
>
>
>
>
>>Hi Frank,
>>
>>Yes, I did replace the Clutch Fork shaft bushings. Apparently, this disc
>>is more high performance
>>than smooth.
>>
>>Joshua, from SHONut, agreed to swap out the disc for a stock one. That's
>>a nice offer but the time
>>involved to swap it out! He mentioned that the website says: "The
>>Fibertuff material is still quite streetable, however. "
>>I guess that was supposed to tell me that it won't be as smooth as the
>>stock disc. I guess I need to learn
>>to read between the lines better.
>>
>>I guess my question is, should I try and replace the motor mounts? Would
>>that help? They are pretty
>>expensive (around $300 for both). SHONut sells reinforced front and back
>>ones. Apparently the
>>MTX shock type mount is stock though - no beefier one there.
>>
>>If I attempt to replace the motor mounts do I have to drop the entire
>>subframe again?
>>
>>Thanks!
>>
>>Ed
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>>Shotimes@autox.team.net
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