I could really use some input here from somebody with a late model Gen II,
an EVTM, or perhaps a voltmeter.
While finishing up a blend door actuator replacement on my wife's '95 ATX, I
cleverly managed to drop a small socket down the defroster vent. After
trying a few things to fish it out from the top, I decided that I'd never
have a better chance to pull the dash out than now and went at it. Turns out
the socket hadn't migrated very far down the vent and was readily retrieved.
After re-installing the dash, my attempt at re-connecting the battery
terminals was met with a big fat arc from the battery terminal to one of the
cable ends ends. Leaving the terminals disconnected, I went to investigate
and discovered that I'd left the ignition switch in the RUN position while
re-installing the steering column. Argh!
OK, simple enough I figure, turn off the ignition and try again... at which
point I heard a little crackly noise over in the vicinity of the fuse box
located above the master cylinder area on this car. Grrr... everything was
fine before I dropped that socket down the vent!!! I'd even started and run
the car and checked that the AC was working properly!
So, somewhere in this comedy of errors the #1 fuse got fried and probably #2
fuse as well (it's currently AWOL, but that's my recollection). According to
the info on the back side of the fuse box cover, both these (60 amp) fuses
protect the ignition switch in some manner
Not surprisingly, I'm now a little gun shy about just throwing in a new set
of fuses and doing the smoke test, so I broke out my ohm-meter and have
established that putting a jumper across the terminals of fuse position #1
(with the battery completely disconnected) completes a circuit between the
battery + and - terminals, even with the ignition switch OFF. Looking at the
terminals from the driver side fender, the left (front) terminal is short to
battery positive and the right terminal (rear) is short to battery negative.
This doesn't seem like a good thing, but hey, I'm a mechanical engineer! I
hate to go thru the effort of pulling the dash out a 3rd time without
confirming where circuit #1 goes - or knowing what I should be seeing with
the ohm-meter on these two terminals.
As for fuse terminal #2, I'm seeing the left terminal as open to both ground
and positive, and the right terminal is short to ground.
So, anybody have an electronic copy of the appropriate page(s) from a '95
EVTM? Or, better yet, have a working knowledge of what one should be
expecting when tracing both sides of the subject circuits?
Your assistance will be most appreciated.
Alan
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