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Re: [Shop-talk] mini-split or window unit ?

To: Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] mini-split or window unit ?
From: Arvid <arvidj999@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2021 09:39:17 -0500
Delivered-to: mharc@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: Shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <OFA43DCDB2.1096D3E8-ON852586BD.0050C13D-852586BD.005E8A0A@mail.megageek.com> <9709C4E7-C5FA-4C4B-A455-DE766D38F3F3@gmail.com>
User-agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux x86_64; rv:78.0) Gecko/20100101 Thunderbird/78.7.1
My experience in Minnesota.

TL;DR; Had a reliable HVAC company install a Mitsubishi mini-split. YMMV.

I recently had a 24 x 36 building built behind the house. Lower level is 10ft 
high. It has a gambrel roof so there is a 12 x 36 x 9 upper level area. R30 in 
the walls and R40 in the roof. One 4 x 8 person door and one 8 x 9 garage door. 
The two long walls were framed with window air conditioner openings. No windows 
were actually installed but the exterior siding and interior walls could easily 
be modified by removing the insulation to create an opening for a window air 
conditioner. I am assuming it would have taken one or two days to convert the 
opening, install the window unit and seal everything back up again. I did all 
of the electrical in the building and had installed 220v 20amp outlets right 
next to both of the windowless openings in anticipation of window units.

Primary winter heat is provided by a natural gas boiler with in-floor radiant 
heat.

The "what size air conditioner?" needed to be addressed. Much research in the 
9000 to 18000 BTU cooling capacity showed that 9000 are were more efficient 
than 12000, 12000 better than 15000, and 15000 better than 18000. My 
calculations suggested 12000 of cooling would do the trick.

In that capacity window units seemed to be anywhere from $400 to $900, with 
mini-splits being in the "considerably more" category. One point for the window 
units.

"What about efficiency?" I found several mini-splits in the 12000 size that 
were considerably more efficient than any similarly rated window unit. One 
point for the mini-split.

Next was to look at the possibility of using the heating capabilities. More 
calculations and it looked like the electrical power used by the mini-split 
would be less than the cost per BTU of natural gas until the outside 
temperature got down to about 35f. Yes, there are lots of winter days in 
Minnesota where the high for the day is less than 35f but there are also many 
spring and fall days where 35f is the low so it seemed like a reasonable 
solution. The 15000 and 18000 units would have provided more heat but the 
trade-off was less efficient cooling. 12000 still seemed to be the reasonable 
solution given the boiler as primary winter heat. Another point for the 
mini-split.

Finally, "DIY or have someone do it?" I had narrowed it down to a Mitsubishi 
12000 mini-split. Certainly not the cheapest but I liked the reviews and both 
the heating and cooling efficiency. I looked at several on-line places that 
would provide all of the "stuff". The price came to around $2800 and I would 
have to come up with a way to evacuate the lines to make it all work. I then 
called the heating contractor that has serviced our home for the last 30 years 
and asked if they installed Mitsubishi (that is all they will install, which 
seemed to be a good sign) and how much would it cost. He came out and looked at 
the building and said "$3200". My response was "When?". "A few days after you 
have installed the electrical disconnect on the outside wall."

I had already installed the 220v for the window unit so it only took a day to 
drop the wiring down and out the wall to an external 30 amp disconnect. The 
following Monday the HVAC contractor and a helper showed up at 7am. My job was 
to point to where I wanted the indoor unit. They drilled a hole in the wall, 
pushed the lines and wiring thru the hole and mounted the inside unit. They 
brought a stand for the outdoor unit and put the unit on top of it. Routed the 
lines and wiring to the unit and placed a nice cover over that mess. Attached 
the unit to the disconnect I had installed and then proceeded to evacuate the 
lines. Shortly thereafter they were showing me how to use the remote control 
and handing me all the paperwork.

It was now 9:50am and they wanted to get some breakfast before their next job. 
I just started doing 'in the garage things" rather than 'to the garage' things.

Yes, I probably could have save a lot of money by going with very inexpensive 
(possibly 'disposable') window units but even with the 'already have the 
framing work done' it would have been a hassle and a couple of days work for me 
(to be repeated again in xx years). But I would not have had any heating 
ability (which has been working quite nicely this spring as the boiler has not 
come on for many weeks) and would be paying more during the cooling season 
based on the reduced efficiency of the window units.


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