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If you need the hole, I'd pull the pan. As someone already said - what
would you say about a shop that left shavings in your new engine?
Don't know the flow rate of oil from the turbo, but how close is AN10 to
3/8 NPT. A quick search shows Summit has a connector for the two:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/vpe-26006
I'd try and go simple since this look a similar size in the picture at
the link above.
Brian
On 10/3/2020 8:56 AM, Miq Millman wrote:
> Here's what I want to do:
>
> Drill a 23/32' hole in the side of the oil pan for the (1/2 NPT-AN10
> steel braided line that allows the oil from the turbo back into the
> block. I have the NPT tap ready.
>
> Here are the complications:
>
> 1) pan is bolted and sealed to the block -- I would rather not remove it
> 2) oil pan is aluminum not steel
> 3) there is already a threaded hole for 3/8 NPT
> 4) engine is newly built long block, with most of the ancillaries
> still to be attached, on an engine stand.
> 5) there is an additional hole on the opposite side of the pan for an
> oil temp sensor
>
> Here is what I am thinking:
>
> 1) coat the drill bit in some red grease to collect aluminum shavings
> 2) seal off water and vacuum passages with tape
> 3) set air compressor to something very low, like 20 psi, and thread
> into the oil sensor hole (1/8 NPT)
> 4) fabricobble up a reduced hose to the shop vac line and point that
> at the drilling point
> 5) drill in short bursts, possibly cleaning the bit and grease each
> time, and reapplying grease
> 6) after I tap the hole (also a challenge due to the length of the tap
> and the baffle inside the pan) dump 5-6 quarts of the cheapest 10 w
> oil at the FLAPS and kind of "slosh" it around by slightly rotating
> the engine on the stand, drain and repeat again
> 7) check second pot of drained oil for metal shavings, if found try
> gas or diesel followed by 3rd round of cheap oil flush
>
> Open to options and opinions. Including telling me not to be an idiot
> with my $8000 engine and just pull the pan.
>
> --
> __
> Tualatin, ORÂ Big Llama Productions
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
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If you need the hole, I'd pull the pan. As someone already said -
what would you say about a shop that left shavings in your new
engine?<br>
<br>
Don't know the flow rate of oil from the turbo, but how close is
AN10 to 3/8 NPT. A quick search shows Summit has a connector for
the two:<br>
<a class="moz-txt-link-freetext"
href="https://www.summitracing.com/parts/vpe-26006";>https://www.summitracing.com/parts/vpe-26006</a><br>
<br>
I'd try and go simple since this look a similar size in the picture
at the link above.<br>
<br>
Brian<br>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 10/3/2020 8:56 AM, Miq Millman
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:CALUbS3Gj1RSWwLj6TSeSY8pCfAZUa8Z3znhBZChuV-+H0qHEUA@mail.gmail.com">
<meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
<div dir="ltr">
<div>Here's what I want to do:</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Drill a 23/32' hole in the side of the oil pan for the (1/2
NPT-AN10 steel braided line that allows the oil from the turbo
back into the block. I have the NPT tap ready.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Here are the complications:</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>1) pan is bolted and sealed to the block -- I would rather
not remove it</div>
<div>2) oil pan is aluminum not steel</div>
<div>3) there is already a threaded hole for 3/8 NPT</div>
<div>4) engine is newly built long block, with most of the
ancillaries still to be attached, on an engine stand.</div>
<div>5) there is an additional hole on the opposite side of the
pan for an oil temp sensor</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Here is what I am thinking:</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>1) coat the drill bit in some red grease to collect
aluminum shavings</div>
<div>2) seal off water and vacuum passages with tape</div>
<div>3) set air compressor to something very low, like 20 psi,
and thread into the oil sensor hole (1/8 NPT)</div>
<div>4) fabricobble up a reduced hose to the shop vac line and
point that at the drilling point</div>
<div>5) drill in short bursts, possibly cleaning the bit and
grease each time, and reapplying grease</div>
<div>6) after I tap the hole (also a challenge due to the length
of the tap and the baffle inside the pan) dump 5-6 quarts of
the cheapest 10 w oil at the FLAPS and kind of "slosh" it
around by slightly rotating the engine on the stand, drain and
repeat again</div>
<div>7) check second pot of drained oil for metal shavings, if
found try gas or diesel followed by 3rd round of cheap oil
flush</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Open to options and opinions. Including telling me not to
be an idiot with my $8000 engine and just pull the pan.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>
<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_signature"
data-smartmail="gmail_signature">--<br>
__<br>
Miq Millman  <a href="mailto:miq@bigllama.com";
target="_blank" moz-do-not-send="true">miq@bigllama.com</a><br>
Tualatin, ORÂ Big Llama Productions<br>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<br>
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<pre class="moz-quote-pre"
wrap="">_______________________________________________
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Archive: <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext"
href="http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk";>http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk</a>
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href="http://autox.team.net/archive";>http://autox.team.net/archive</a>
</pre>
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