I inadvertantly sent the reply to Jim only. So I'm reposting for the group.
At 03:33 PM 7/2/2015, you wrote:
>Thanks John. My follow-up question was going to be on the value of
inexpensive
>rotors. :)
>The only reason for wanting to avoid replacing the rotors (besides just being
>cheap) is because they are held on with two screws that seems to
almost always
>rust in place. From all that I have read, those two screws turn this from a
>quick simple job to one that can take a day.
While this is true, here are some comments:
1. These screws aren't required. They are there to hold the rotor on
the hub while
the car is on the assembly line.
2. To remove them, hit the screws with some PBlast before you start
the job. In
fact if you have a spare car, jack it up the night before and squirt
the PBlast on
the screws the night before you plan on working on the car, then in the morning
before you start.
3. Using an impact screw driver
like:
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=impact+screwdriver
to break the screws loose.
I've never had any problems with the screws using this. If you have
to drill them
out, see if you can't find a left handed drill bit to start drilling on them.
>So, any good recommendations on aftermarket pads and rotors will be
>appreciated.
I've used afftermarket rotors on my honda accord & civic, both my
Chrysler mini-
vans, and my Taurus. They all have lasted as long as the brake pads
did. But usually when it was time to replace the pads, I had to
replace the rotors again.
But at $30 to $100 each versus what the dealership wants, I didn't
mind replacing
them.
John
John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair1948@cox.net
Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229
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