Maybe a little sea foam in with the one of the first two oil changes?
I've seen clean oil become instantly dirty with one bottle's worth of
treatment so the stuff must work.
good luck
tim
> From: JIBrooks@Live.com
> To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Date: Sun, 30 Nov 2014 17:49:19 -0800
> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Coolant in Oil
>
> I agree with Jim. You don't need to go anything fancy, just time at
> temperature with clean oil to get the crud and moisture out.
>
> Jack
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Shop-talk [mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim
> Franklin
> Sent: Sunday, November 30, 2014 4:19 PM
> To: Shop-Talk List
> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Coolant in Oil
>
> Is the cross contamination happening at the intake? I've always heard of
> it happening (in general, not in any particular motor) at the head gaskets.
>
> I wouldn't bother with any chemicals. Flush it twice with cheap oil,
> letting it get hot enough each time that the water emulsifies into the
> oil, about 20 minutes. The 2nd flush should look pretty good and any
> leftover water will just boil off in normal use.
>
> jim
>
> On 11/30/2014 6:18 PM, Mark Watson wrote:
> > Folks,
> >
> > I'm appealing to the shop-talk group wisdom on this one. Earlier
> > this year my in-laws gave us their 1995 Buick Century with the 3.1l
> > V6. It was Grammy's car with only 105k miles - she can't drive
> > anymore which is why we got it. It's I really good shape except for
> > the coolant in the oil problem. When we got it the thermostat wasn't
> > working so I put one in. After that it started losing coolant. The
> > radiator had a leak at one tank seam (aluminum core with plastic
> > tanks) so I replaced it. Still losing coolant but not externally -
> > you guessed it - it was leaking into the oil. My final test before
> > taking anything apart was to pressurize the cooling system with the
> > oil drain plug removed and coolant basically ran out directly
> > correlated to the pressure. Apparently this engine is known for having
> > intake gasket issues. I pulled everything off and it doesn't look
> > good. The oil looks like a gross milkshake.
> >
> > The question - I don't want to replace/rebuild the engine if I can
> > help it. I figure if I can replace the gaskets (parts roughly $150,
> > my labor - priceless) and get enough life out of it I'll be coming out
> > ahead!
> >
> > Has anyone had any experience with flushing this gunk out of the
> > engine? I searched the archives and the only other case was
> > inconclusive as to what the poster did after getting answers.
> >
> > In searching the net I found this site:
> >
>
http://dannysengineportal.blogspot.com/2011/05/how-to-clean-engine-coolant-f
> romthe.html
> >
> > They advocate using an industrial solvent like this: "Mix a 2:1
> > solution of a commercially available cleaning solvent such as Butyl
> > Cellosolve (Union Carbide), Downol E-13 (Dow Chemical), or Glycol
> > Ether E-B (Chem Central) or equivalent with the enginebs recommended
> > oil." When I search for Butyl Cellosolve it shows up most in rants
> > against buying window or carpet cleaner with it. Of course I could
> > care less about that. Two gallons with shipping would cost $60.
> >
> > Has anyone used the BG Flush products they sell at some shops? What
> > I've read about them is to avoid them if you've been changing your oil
> > - obviously not relevant to my situation!
> >
> > Any help would be greatly appreciated!
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > Mark Watson
> > 1956 Daimler (long term resto)
> > 1965 Ford Falcon (getting back on road after trans replacement)
> > various transportation pods (including this one ;-)
> > _______________________________________________
> >
> > Shop-talk@autox.team.net
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