Third try at a reply - my replies to the Forum bounce after a day.
After a long time getting to the right department at Lochinvar, I got a new
water heater under warrantee. Got it home last night and it's not the same
model - 3" taller, different spacing on the inlet and outlet. Now I'm
beefing up the stair landing above the heater with steel so I can cut out
the joists to get an inch of clearance for the B-vent.
The new heater has a separate anode, so in a year or two I'll be ordering a
magnesium anode from Waterheaterrescue.com. And yes, I always use
dielectric unions.
At the same time I'm putting in the Watts instant hot water system - it
pressurizes the hot slightly and by installing a valve at any desired faucet
it keeps the water hot by bypassing the not-so-hot water into the cold side.
This will be a boon in the powder room, because that plumbing is on an
uninsulated outside wall and we leave the faucets trickling in long subzero
spells. Yeah, it'll take longer to get COLD water, but we drink RO water
from the kitchen anyway. Besides, toilet flushing will use up the warm
water and probably help prevent toilet tank sweating in the summer.
Thanks to all for the advice!
Karl
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