Tim,
I agree, the cotter key doesn't look too robust! Are you sure the stack
of washers opposite the cotter key are correctly placed? Usually a
cotter key is against a washer so it doesn't wear through.
Can you move the location of the cable closer to the arm? I would try
either threading the pin that is held with the cotter key and use a nut
on each side of the arm to lock it in place with enough play to allow it
to rotate as needed. A bit of Locktite or drilling holes in the nuts and
pin to allow safety wire to be run through them should do the trick, or
use collars with set screws on each side of the arm.
Another thing to try is to find a shouldered shaft where you can use the
shoulder on the side where the cotter key is, with some jamb nuts on the
other side of the arm, then the nuts and washers that hold the cable.
Peace,
Pat
Thusly spake Tim
> Not sure what to call it but I would like to use a different
> end/terminal that what was included with this carb linkage kit:
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/82293958@N06/8928731354/
>
> Looking for suggestions to replace the little bits you can see on the
> left that has the cable stuck in it for the picture. (I do have a new
> cable that is not frayed.) I donbt like how these little bits are
> supposed to hold the cable. Also, it is all held on the rod by the
> smallest and thinnest wire cotter pin I have ever seen. The rod on the
> right is just the bare rod that will receive the replacement part that
> holds the cable shown as a reference.
>
> Whatta think?
> Thanks
> tim
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>
--
Pat Horne, Owner, Horne Systems
(512) 797-7501 Voice & Text 5026 FM 2001
Pat@HorneSystemsTx.com Lockhart, TX 78644-4443
www.hornesystemstx.com
-- We support Habitat for Humanity - a hand UP, not a hand OUT --
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