If I am not mistaken that defines exactly what happens with the "frozen
cable".
Water gets into the cable housing and freezes. When you apply the hand brake
there is tremendous leverage and you can easily apply enough force to
overcome the freeze and set the parking brake. Return a few hours later and
things have refrozen but the only force available to pull the cable back
thru the housing is the spring at the caliper end. Not nearly enough to
overcome the frozen cable. Therefore the brake does not release and the
lever moves about the cabin freely as the spring force that normally
provides the resistance you feel is being held up by the frozen cable.
Options include: Do not use the parking brake in cold weather ... use the
parking brake but include "gentle prying" as part of the 'release parking
brake' incantation ... try to remove the water from the cable ... replace
the cable as the rubber boots that are suppose to prevent water from getting
in there in the first place may be shot.
If I recall correctly, when I replaced mine I shot a lot of motorcycle cable
lubricant into the new ones on my '93 MR2 in an effort to stave of the
inevitable water entry as long as possible.
Arvid
-----Original Message-----
From: eric@megageek.com
Sent: Tuesday, February 12, 2013 4:26 AM
To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Sticky brake
David writes...
> But I thought Eric said the cable wasn't the problem on his Spyder?
When the brake is frozen, I can move the handle up and down w/out
resistance. I would image that if the cable as frozen, the hand brake
lever wouldn't move.
I was able to free it up by gently prying the brake pad away from the
rotor this last time when the brake was frozen.
Thanks again for all the help. I'm still considering the new cable as a
"try it" method.
Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph
Waldo Emerson
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