Jim,
There are cable shorteners that will work if the cable is not in a
sheath all the way back. It looks like 2 triangular plates with bolts or
studs through 2 of the corners. At the third corner there is a hole in a
block between the plates that allows a hook to go through between the
studs and pulls the cable down. It is easier to see one than describe it.
Peace,
Pat
Thusly spake Jim Stone, On 1/19/2012 4:55 PM:
> I put a new parking brake cable on my Alpine a few years ago and it was never
> really right from the beginning; I had to take up all of the slack in it in
> order to get the brakes to hold, and this was with relatively new rear shoes
> that were properly adjusted. Well, it didn't take much stretching of the
> cable for the 'just barely holding' to turn into 'not really very effective'
> and I just replaced it today with a new one. However, that one is also too
> long and after a bit of modification (I added a few extra threads on the
> adjusting bolt) it is now at the 'just barely holding' stage. The two cables
> are from totally different manufacturers, leading me to think that it is
> something about my car, not the cables. It is, after all, an LBC.
>
> I have a couple of options for fixing the situation, but the easiest would be
> to shorten the cable. The stock cable is about 1/8" steel and has a ferrule
> crimped on it at the end. Moving the ferrule an inch would more than do the
> trick. I don't trust my ability to crimp something new on securely enough and
> was thinking about fabricating and welding in a new ferrule. Is that feasible
> with a MIG welder? I've never heard of anyone welding cable, but it seems
> possible. I certainly don't want this failing at the wrong time, so I'll
> explore Plan B if this is a really bad idea.
>
> Thanks.
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>
--
Pat Horne, Owner, Horne Systems
(512) 797-7501 Voice 5026 FM 2001
Pat at HorneSystemsTx.com Lockhart, TX 78644-4443
www.hornesystemstx.com
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