The problem is the initial setting with the steel spring "fingers in
the first station.
Fit the drill in the holder and adjust it so it slides, but with some
friction. Loose enough so you can slide it back and forth by hand
but not enough that it will fall out if you tip it vertical.
Spread the steel fingers and insert the holder into the first
station. Make sure the tip of the drill "bottoms out" in the station
and then rotate the drill. As you rotate it, the fingers will slide
over the circumference of the drill until the fingers "snap" into
place - brain fart so I can't think of the proper terminology but the
fingers will end up going from ridge to ridge.
Tighten the holder to grip the drill securely and then remove from the station.
Now, you can sharpen. Take nibbles rather than bites - it's not a race.
To do the splits does take some practice.
At 07/24/11 at 20:52, Shakespearean monkeys danced on Aric's keyboard and said:
>Finally! A topic I can help with!!!
>
>I picked up a 750x a couple years back and I'm still undecided about it.
>Sometimes it puts a great point on, other times it puts a left hand relief
>on a right hand drill. Apparently it's a result of improper timing of the
>drill in the holder, but damned if I can figure out what I'm doing wrong
>(since it'll do it wrong 3 times in a row and then correctly, all without me
>changing a thing). Small drills can be a pain due to being shorter than the
>collet and I have yet to figure out how to use it to touch up the point on
>centerdrills. I also haven't yet figured out how to properly touch up
>135deg split point carbide drills with it, or parabolic for that matter.
>That said, it usually works just fine for regular drills and I'll usually at
>least give it a try before heading over to the grinder to do it by hand.
Cheers!
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