Doug - You can buy a special heat resistant shield that is like a heavy
cloth (Home Depot SKU # 411396 for $17.89), but if it is just a few
applications, you can probably get by something you already have at
home. When I had about 6 inches to wood behind the fitting, I just used
a double layer of aluminum foil and a thumb tack.
I had another time when I needed to 1/2 copper attached to in a 2x4
under a sink. On that one, I just bent a small section of metal
flashing and aimed the torch parallel to the stud. You could add a
little fiberglass insulation behind the metal if you were concerned.
These ideas would be good for wood, drywall, and plaster. If you have
electrical wire or other delicate items nearby, you probably need more.
Have a spray bottle of water and a fire extinguisher with you for safety
and stick around for a while afterwords to make sure nothing was smoldering.
Many propane torches are also capable of running Max Power Propylene
(MAPP) gas, which puts out more heat, so that may also be an option.
Brian
On 6/11/2011 8:23 PM, Douglas Braun wrote:
> Hello,
>
> I need to solder some 1-1/2" bronze drain pipe fittings like this:
>
> http://bit.ly/jopSXO
>
> in a sort of tight spot. I have one of those common Bernzomatic
> propane torches, but I am worried that I'll set the house on fire
> before I get the joint hot enough. I also have a mini oxy-acetylene
> set, with #0, 1, and 2 nozzles. Could that do a better job? Or is
> oxy-acetylene simply too hot for soldering? Could I end up melting
> the pipes, even with a small flame?
>
> Thanks,
> Doug
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