Hi Tim,
I order mine online:
http://www.waterheaterrescue.com/pages/WHRpages/English/OrderPages/XCart/Flex-Hex-Zinc-Anode.html
Mine looked like the "before rod" in that picture. I imagine any plumbing
supply
store would have them as well.
Here is another one that is cheaper if you want to go with aluminum. I think
they are fine as long as you are not drinking the hot water:
http://www.plumbingstore.com/sacrificial_rods.html
best,
doug
________________________________
From: Tim <tputland@charter.net>
To: old dirtbeard <dirtbeard@pacbell.net>
Cc: Jack Brooks <jibjib@att.net>; shop-talk@autox.team.net
Sent: Thu, June 2, 2011 11:02:33 AM
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] anode rods-- was the air saga continues
Here's a question: Where can I get an anode rod? I have not seen them at the
HomeDespot or the Ace Hardwares I have been in--but often admit to being blind.
I doubt the Farm&Barn would have them either.
Thanks
On Thu, Jun 2, 2011 at 12:46 PM, old dirtbeard wrote:
>> You do change out your hot water heater tank anode every 3-5 years and flush
>> the tank every year or so, if it's bottom gas fired, right?>
>>
>> Jack
>
>
> Yes, I do, anyway. I pulled the anode out of my 75 gallon tank when it was
>five
>years old and it only had a few inches of magnesium left at the bottom of the
>rod. Since it is in a closet, I got a segmented rode that you can "fold" so
>you
>can put in a full length rod even though you do not have sufficient clearance.
>The basic wisdom is that a rod will last about five years without a water
>softener and only three years with a softener.
>
> I also put a 3/4" ball valve on the drain so that it can really flush the
>tank
>with some "gusto" (the original small drain valve really would not flow enough
>water to suck up the large decayed rod sediment off from the bottom of the
>tank.
>The hose on the ball valve now will shoot water and sediment 30 feet into the
>air). :-)
>
> I know the standard information says in order to flush, just drain a few
>gallons out of the tank. What I found works the best is to completely drain
>the
>tank by flushing it out the 3/4" ball valve, then open the cold water inlet
>just
>enough to pressurize the tank and put a few inches of water on the bottom of
>the
>tank, then open the ball valve to flush the few gallons of fresh water off the
>bottom of the tank. By repeating this process multiple times, it removed a
>great
>deal of sediment off the bottom of the tank that normal draining did not
>remove
>(I was amazed how much sediment remained in the tank after "normal flushing").
>
> The tank also is much quieter now (no knocking/thudding) when the burner is
>running.
>
> best,
>
> doug
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/tputland@charter.net
_______________________________________________
Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation $12.96
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
|