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Re: [Shop-talk] Wiring a new compressor.

To: Rich White <rlwhitetr3b@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Wiring a new compressor.
From: John Mitchell <jmitch@snet.net>
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 2009 21:25:35 -0500
    I wired it up tonight and it's working perfectly with no SPARKS.  I 
did run 3 conductor + bare ground wire to an outlet.   Then ran 50 amp 
cable from the compressor to a plug for the outlet.   Now for the 
plumbing,  Thanks for the help all.  John Mitchell
Rich White wrote:
> I would look at the three conductor wire for a new installation and then use
> the wire nut or tape on it.
>
> The cost difference might not be that much and maybe the next item you place
> there will want 110v.
>
>
> Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA
> '63 TR3B TCF587L
> That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car!
>
>
>
>
>   
>> Date: Wed, 9 Dec 2009 23:46:20 -0500
>> From: marka@maracing.com
>> To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
>> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Wiring a new compressor.
>>
>> Howdy,
>>
>> On Wed, 9 Dec 2009, John Mitchell wrote:
>>     
>>> I just received a new Ingersoll Rand compressor which in 220V single
>>> phase. The problem is the box has only 2 wiring connections, L1 and L2.
>>> There's also a greenish screw at the back of the box, which I assume is
>>> for the bare ground wire. So where does the neutral wire go? The
>>> instructions are pretty useless. John Mitchell
>>>       
>> I'm not an electrician but...
>>
>> Sounds to me like its a normal straight 220vac motor. It takes 110vac on
>> one line and 110vac on the other line (making 220vac). The green screw is
>> for the safety ground. Since there are no 110vac loads in the compressor,
>> there's no need for a neutral wire.
>>
>> If you're running new wire, just run standard /2 wire in whatever guage
>> you need for the amperage. If you have an existing wire run, I'd leave
>> the neutral wire disconnected (and taped/wire nutted over to prevent a
>> short to something else). If you have an existing outlet, just connect
>> nothing to the neutral leg on the plug.
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