On Tue, Jun 2, 2009 at 10:44 PM, Rich White <rlwhitetr3b@hotmail.com> wrote:
> Listers,
>
>
>
> The shorting to the item's shell was the part that bothered me, but I don't
> think that connecting the grounding wire back to the GFCI would help.
B From
> what I found on the net and want I remember, the GFCI B compares the current
in
> the black and white wires.
>
> If they do not match, it shuts down the circuit. B Nothing B I found says
> anything about checking the grounding wire. B I think even if you connected
all
> the grounds togeather, they would still be just floating. B That would not
be
> any better than not having them connected.
>
That's correct: GFCI compares the hot and the neutral currents. If
they're different (more than the spec for the GFCI; you have to allow
some difference for real equipment), it trips. A dead short from hot
to case won't draw any current until something provides a path to
earth. Then the GFCI will see the difference and trip; if there were
a real ground, the short would draw current, and trip the GFCI. This
is why you're required to label the outlets. I'm not a big fan of
GFCI used like this, and would much rather have the code not allow it.
(Incidentally, in some places a GFCI is called an RCD for "Residual
current detector"
>
>
> At this point my only choices are to leave it as a old style non-grounded
> circuit or make it a GFCI protected circuit. B I think the GFCI is the
better
> option. B I will call the county tomorrow.
Can you not run a new circuit?
--
David Scheidt
dmscheidt@gmail.com
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