shop-talk
[Top] [All Lists]

Re: [Shop-talk] Load bearing walls

To: Jim Stone <jandkstone99@msn.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Load bearing walls
From: Pat <Pat@HorneSystemsTx.com>
Date: Sun, 21 Dec 2008 18:10:24 -0600
Jim,

You would need to open up the wall above where the new opening will be 
and install a header above the opening to hold up the weight. You would
also need to beef up the studs o each side of the new opening to to 
support the concentrated load. You will also need to strengthen the 
floor/foundation
to support the concentrated load also. You can support the load 
temporally by building a wall next to the one you want to cut out to 
hold up the ceiling and whatever is above it. Then make the wall 
changes, then remove the temporary wall.

I would recommend getting an engineer involved in to tell you what is 
needed for the header, how many 2x4's need to be added to each end of 
the opening, and how to strengthen the floor. Remember, if something 
goes wrong and you didn't have it engineered, your insurance company may 
not take care of the
repairs...not to mention your wife! I had a steel stairway designed by a 
PE who charged me less than $300, including foundation plans. That was 
about 5 years ago. You may also be required to pull a permit and have 
inspections done.

Please let us know what you decide to do.

Peace,
Pat

Thusly spake Jim Stone:
> My wife would like to enlarge the doorway between our dining room and kitchen.
> Unfortunately, the wall in question is load bearing.  The wall runs
> perpendicular to the floor joists in the attic and runs the length of the
> house.
>
> The house was built in 1907, if that matters.  I wouldn't be removing the wall
> completely; the ceilings are 9 feet high and the current door opening is 7' by
> about 32"; she'd like to enlarge it to about 9' to match one on the other
> wall, so there would be 2' off wall above the opening.  For what its worth,
> there is currently a 9' opening in the same wall between the adjacent living
> room and the rest of the house.
>
> So, does this sound like something that requires a structural engineer and
> needs to be done by a professional, or could I do it myself?  I would
> certainly never remove a load bearing wall myself (did that by mistake with a
> friend and know the consequences), but the wall would stay; the door way would
> just be a whole lot wider.
>
> Thanks.
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Send e-mail anywhere. No map, no compass.
> http://windowslive.com/oneline/hotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_hotmail_acq_anywhere
> _122008
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as pat@hornesystemstx.com
>
> Shop-talk mailing list
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shop-talk
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>   
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Internal Virus Database is out of date.
> Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com 
> Version: 8.0.176 / Virus Database: 270.9.18/1850 - Release Date: 12/15/2008 
>5:04 PM
>
>   

-- 
Pat Horne, Owner, Horne Systems (512) 797-7501
5026 FM 2001 Lockhart, TX 78644-4443
Pat@HorneSystemsTx.com  www.hornesystemstx.com
-- We support Habitat for Humanity - a hand UP, not a hand OUT --
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html


Shop-talk mailing list

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shop-talk

http://www.team.net/archive

<Prev in Thread] Current Thread [Next in Thread>