On Mon, Dec 8, 2008 at 4:35 PM, Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com> wrote:
>> The switch is not cheap. Is there a way to test the old switch with
>> an ohm meter or something to make certain this is the problem before
>> I buy the new switch.
>
> Can you access the connections between the switch and the element? Easiest
> test would be to check the voltage applied to the element.
>
> Of course you could try using an ohmmeter to check continuity through the
> switch, but because of the very low resistance required that method might
> give you false results.
>
> If the 'special' switch is particularly expensive, I might be tempted to
> insert a relay. I recently bought one rated more than you need, for under
> $25 (including shipping) on flea-bay.
That won't work. This is an electric range, so the switch isn't just
a switch, it's also a controller of some sort. Depending on the
range, it's either a multi-pole switch, or a dimmer type switch, or a
switch with a heater in it (that acts as a timer on the burner's duty
cycle. Yeah. That's nuts. It's very common.), or a switch that
controls a thermostat at the burner. Or maybe something else
entirely. Each of those has a different trouble shooting technique,
but my first shot at fixing would be to take it apart and see if
there's something that can be cleaned or adjusted.
--
David Scheidt
dmscheidt@gmail.com
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