Change # 12 to 13-A, "make" sure the head is "TRUE" and no cracks between
the valves or cyclinders= BTDT once was enough, buy a "complete gasket set"
"FT"
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@comcast.net>
To: "Karl Vacek" <KVacek@Ameritech.net>; "Dan and Jenny Fest (Coles
Nurseries Inc)" <coles@colesnurseries.com>
Cc: <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2008 8:37 PM
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] engine rebuild
> I've only rebuilt one engine (Austin-Healey 3000), but I had good advice
> and help from my father, who is an expert mechanic. The engine now has
> 70K+ miles. Here's what I can recommend:
>
> 1) get a good shop manual
> 2) study it exhaustively
> 3) work in a clean, organized shop or garage
> 4) acquire any special tools you'll have to have prior to starting (esp.
> torque wrenches)
> 5) buy, rent or borrow an engine stand
> 6) understand how everything works and what it's there for (see #1 and #2)
> 7) be patient
> 8) cover the crank journals and/or the conrod studs when you insert the
> pistons
> 9) make sure the rings are right-side-up
> 10) follow the torque specs
> 11) keep everything clean--no crud in engine
> 12) get block hot-tanked and thoroughly clean all passages afterward
> 13) make notes, take pictures when you disassemble the engine
> 14) make triple-sure all oil holes line up with the appropriate channel or
> passage (crank, cam, rocker arm)
> 15) keep track of which piston, lifter and pushrod goes to each cyl, you
> might be able to re-use plus you want to know which one might have had a
> problem
> 16) make sure the front crank seal--if it's the newer rubber type--is
> centered on the crank before you tighten the timing cover
> 17) if your timing gears don't have marks you'll have to use a dial
> indicator and degree wheel (make sure you measure at the specified lift)
> 18) use a light coat of Permatex "Aviation Form-A-Gasket" on paper gaskets
> 19) prelube pistons with engine oil and all other moving surfaces with
> assembly lube
> 20) if you use new/reground cam or lifters run at higher speed (~2,000RPM)
> for first 15-20 minutes on initial startup
> 21) have fun!
>
>
>
> bs
>
>
> --
> ***************************************************************
> Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@comcast.net
> '67 Austin-Healey 3000 '56 Austin-Healey 100M
> ***************************************************************
>
> -------------- Original message ----------------------
> From: "Karl Vacek" <kvacek@ameritech.net>
>> To add to what Eric said, get a friend who's done an engine or two (or
>> twenty) to give you some moral support. Someone to stop by and look and
>> give you the confidence that all is going well, that it's supposed to
>> look
>> like that, this is how you do that, etc.
>>
>> And it it's an XPAG engine (T-series MG) don't be surprised that the
>> pistons
>> come out the bottom, not the top !!
>>
>> Karl
>>
>>
>> > On Tue, Aug 05, 2008 at 06:38:06PM -0400, Dan and Jenny Fest (Coles
>> > Nurseries Inc) wrote:
>> >> I am thinking of attempting my first engine rebuild. Although I've
>> >> never
>> >> rebuilt an engine , I am fairly mechanical. Can anyone describe the
>> >> steps I
>> >> need to follow.
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> You are subscribed as bspidell@comcast.net
>>
>> Shop-talk mailing list
>>
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shop-talk
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as frede.thomas2@verizon.net
>
> Shop-talk mailing list
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shop-talk
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Shop-talk mailing list
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shop-talk
http://www.team.net/archive
|