> The well is _right_ next to the house and has an in-well 220vac pump.
> There's a pressure guage on the inlet into the basement from
> the well, but
> I couldn't tell you what the kick on and kick off pressures are...
Well (pun intended), that's certainly the place to start. Many well systems
are designed for lower pressure than one normally sees with municipal
systems, so your low pressure may be normal. It's also worthwhile having a
look at what the pressure and pump do under load.
There are different designs, but typical is a pressure tank near the pump
that is supposed to be partially filled with air, to act as an accumulator
and supply water for a short time so the pump doesn't have to always run
when you just run a glass of water or whatever. The air occasionally has to
be replenished, even if your tank is a newer design with a rubber bladder.
> The house has had at least one major addition that included a
> bathroom &
> laundry room. In the basement, there are 1/2" water pipes
IMO 1/2" is inadequate for your current load ... marginal for the way the
house was built.
One change that would likely make a big difference with relatively little
effort is to run a new line from the pressure tank to the hot water heater.
That way, at least drawing more cold water won't kill the hot water.
> Also, pretty much every valve is a good old (heh.) gate style
> valve and
> they all seem to leak like crazy if you have the audacity to
> close & open
Need to tighten, or possibly replace the packing, then. Not hard at all,
but it's best to have the water off while you do it.
> We also have a particulate filter, then a rust filter, then a water
> softener setup
Are they located near the pump ? Restriction through the filters or
softener bed may be the problem. Was any of it evaluated when the bathroom
& utility room were added ?
Randall
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