I've currently got some vehicles that are well known for rotor problems.
Toyota trucks are well known for lug nut induces runout problems. Volvo's of
the hat type rotor are difficult to seat squarely and are hyper sensitive to
dirt under the seat. I've also had a vehicle (motorcycle) with a warped rotor.
Since it was steel and non vented, I hammered it back. My Spitfire and Fiat
were not noted for rotor warp or runout issues.
Not to disparage the author of the web article, but having worked in a test lab
performing heat induced distortion studies of rotating discs I'm well
experienced at how well they do not come back to zero runout after heating.
This part and parcel of the reason brake pedal pulse can come and go.
Sometimes the heated and expanded rotor comes back towards zero better then
other times.
One of the big problems the author of the web article missed is the resulting
problems of cutting a warped rotor. This is common practice, and not a good
one. For what normally happens is you end up with thin and thick areas.
Obviously this can create immediate pedal pulse issues. But more
significantly, heat buildup and dissipation in the rotor is unequal, leading to
more rapid and dramatic heat induced warpage of the rotor.
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