Another source for a good battery isolator is from a company called
HellRoaring Technologies (yeah, I know "great" name - see their website for
the history). Their web address is http://www.hellroaring.com/ .
Although they are more expensive than the diode type they offer several
advantages - no diode drop of at least 0.7V, switchable operation, etc. -
again see their website.
I'm planning on using one of these on my wheelchair lift equipped Ford
E150 van as soon as I can find a frame mount battery box that is used with
the diesel version. That way we won't have to run the engine when we put my
son in his wheelchair into the van but can use the aux battery without fear
of draining the main battery. I might be able to use the aux battery to
start the engine (or at least help) if the main battery conks out.
One of the other engineers at work ("Power Dave") has bought some
modified versions of these solid state switches for ultra low resistance
reliable switching of some high current loads. He is a bit (OK a lot of a)
fanatic and he loves them. If "Power Dave" likes them they I feel sure they
are really good.
HTH
Mark Watson
p.s. By the way - does anyone have one of the Ford diesel secondary battery
boxes for a 2001 E150 van?
<snip>
> the twelve volt stuff isn't hard. I'd install a battery isolator in the
> truck charging circuit (actually a big ol honkin heatsink with two diodes)
> that prevent your trailer from draining your truck battery.. but allow
> both to be charged when the truck is running. Picture two diodes (of
> sufficient current capacity) with their anodes (inputs) tied together
> attached to the truck charging circuit (output of alternator) and the
> output of each diode going the truck battery and the trailer battery bank
> respectively. Pay attention to the wire gauge of the wire feeding the
<snip>
|