Here's my inspiration
http://www.westsidegardener.com/howto/hoophouse.html
Here's a more refined one, that is closer to what my current crop of
these structures is like.
http://users.ntplx.net/~davesas/ghouse.htm
To make the hoops I used 20' lengths of PVC, 1" diameter, cheap
schedule 40. Might be 1-1/4".
The hoops are spaced 24" apart. Width of the buildings varies, but I
tend to like 12' best.
For the ridge pole, I again used PVC. No complex fittings like the two
links above used. I simply used drywall screws and screwed the pipe
onto the hoops. Screws were about 1.5" long and punch through the ridge
pole, but only into the one side of the hoop.
For added strength, I ran an additional side pipe or stringer down each
side about shoulder height. http://users.ntplx.net/~davesas/green3.jpg
See the blue tarp covered vehicle in the background? The stringer runs
right down there at that location. One on each side.
To mark all the pipes, I'd made a jig fixture consisting of sticks
poked into the ground. As in two sticks just the width of the pipe, and
one at the end to butt up against. Then a set of sticks for the
distances to the ridge pole and two shoulder height poles. Mark with a
sharpie. Repeat for as many hoops as you want the structure long.
To make it easy to attach the pipes together, I did this all on the
ground laid out flat.
To install in the ground I used 18" lengths of rebar. Poke one in the
ground and declare that a corner. Worked off that with a tight string
to make a straight wall. Simply poked rebar in the ground every 24".
Do the same on the other side for the second wall.
Install the hoops onto the rebar. Just lift up and slide down. Work
one hoop completely, do a few more, and then you can just run down one
wall and then the other. The structure is up!
Now just poking into the ground will follow the lay of the land. I did
that just fine for years. But my current version is more similar to the
second link above. I went even fancier and used some cheap plywood
ripped into 2' wide lengths 8' long, and make a quasi wall. Figured it
would be a little stronger then a 2x6 or 2x4 laying on the ground.
The structure is up, but it's floppy to the ends. To fix that I then
put in some diagonal braces, running from the end hoops down to the
ground about 2-3 hoops later. Looks just like the diagonal bracing you
see on many green houses. Again, drywall screwed in place. With this
step I now have a very rigid structure.
Throw your plastic over the hoop. This gets a little interesting if
there is even the slightest breeze. I found it easiest to throw it up
over one end and walk it down the ridge pole.
I clipped the plastic to the end hoops using extra sections of PVC
pipe. I cut up a pipe into lengths of about 8". I would then rip it
twice to make a c shaped piece when viewed on end. This I could shove
over the hoop and clamp the plastic with, sandwiching it between the
hoop and this c shaped piece.
On the ground, I originally used rocks to hold the plastic down on the
sides. This worked fine, but looked messy. My latest, with the plywood
walls has the cover tacked to the top, with a batten board screwed down
over that. Much neater and stronger in the wind.
To make the end walls, I simply set one more hoop in place, right up
against the end. I then clipped plastic to that hoop. I would screw it
to the end with three screws, right about where the ridge pole and two
stringers are. To make the end work as a door, I simply skipped the top
screw on one, and would unscrew one of the shoulder height screws. Lift
off the rebar stake and swing open. The pipe flexes plenty to allow
this. My latest iteration I installed conduit hangers to allow for
easier swiveling, but it doesn't work well. I've thought about using an
eye and hook fastener, but haven't bothered. I just remember my
screwdriver is my "key". Some day, I may make the fancy doors shown in
the second link above, but I doubt it.
I've used 6mm white/clear plastic I get from Lowes for years. I get
big rolls of 20x100 for about $40. It lasts about 2 years. True
greenhouse plastic would last far longer, but costs more. Black plastic
would last longer as well, but it's awfully dark inside with that.
Currently, I'm using an old swimming pool cover I got for free, and
that's doing just dandy.
These things have survived several winter storms, with a good bit of
heavy snow. As in several feet of it. They have done well. The only
time I ever had problems was going into a winter with one in rather
tatty torn up shape. That one tore, which caused sags, which buckled a
few of the hoops. That was my fault, not a reflection of the
structure.
>>> "John T. Blair" <jblair@exis.net> 09/09/03 08:35PM >>>
You ought to put together a part list, and drawings for some plans and
sell them. I'll bet many of us on the list would buy a set of plans.
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