Howdy,
On Sun, 2 Mar 2003, Scott Hall wrote:
> so I'm unloading various and sundry triumph parts into the new garage when
> I notice a puddle on the floor. above it is a bowed-down section of
> drywall dripping...
That sucks. I've looked up to see that a couple times, and its always
that "oh crap, I didn't need to deal with this" feeling... :-(
> any preferred methods or general advice? I'm going to get flashing and
> use it in the valley, but mostly I'm wondering about ripping off the old
> shingles or just going over them. I'm not going to re-do the whole roof,
> so I'm curious if there's anything special about blending old shingles
> into new ones, etc.? can I mesh old and new if I shingle over the
> existing shingles? should I use (roof) cement anywhere? I don't want to
> create a bigger problem then I've already got...
What I've done is to strip the shingles in the valley and back a couple
feet on either side. On the edges, you want to carefully lift up the
shingles and use a 'bar' (like one of those L shaped things with v's on
both ends to pull nails. We always just called 'em 'bars') to pop the
nails out. That will leave you a ragged edge of the old good shingles.
Then put down flashing in the valley. Figure out why you got the leak, so
that your new setup doesn't do that. :-)
If you wanna really be anal, you can get some "bitch-a-thane" and stick
that to the roof, overlapping the flashing, on either side of the valley.
I can't remember what its really called (we called it that because when
you're trying to apply it and its windy, it can get a bit sticky... :-),
but its a plasticy 3' or so wide sheeting that comes in a roll with a
sticky side. It provides a great seal that can even seal up around nail
holes. Its _really_ recommended for the eaves, where ice can sometimes
form, causing water to back up under the shingles.
Then shingle in the new shingles. Hopefully needless to say, don't nail
in the valley :-) We always used to run the shingles over the valley, but
I have seen folks just stop and cut the shingles so that they overlap the
flashing a bit, then seal the edges with cement. That, to me, seems
pretty dumb, but people make it work.
Use roofing cement to fix any nail holes that aren't covered well by
shingles. The general rule with roofing cement is that it can't hurt, so
use it liberally if you think something might leak.
> and, how wet can drywall get before it's "gone"? the water puddled in the
> ceiling and has soaked most of the drywall. at first I was just going to
> replace the obviously warped stuff that bowed down, but now I wonder if I
> need to replace everything that got wet. some of it is downright spongy
> to the touch, which makes me think I need to r&r it. my brother-in-law
> insists that once it's dried out, however, it's good as new. this is the
> same guy that once nearly electricuted himself with a drop light, but it's
> certainly tempting to not have to fool with it.
>
> same question for the osb roof decking. it doesn't seem to be
> damaged/rotted at all, but is just one soaking too much?
For the drywall, if it looks ok it is. Drywall isn't structural, so looks
is the only test. If its that wet, I bet it'll dry with stains or warping
though.
For the roof decking, look at the board and decide. Getting soaked isn't
the end of the world as long as it can dry out. Pretty much we always
just replaced anything rotted or that wouldn't hold us up.
Hope that helps. All this is from when I did rough carpentry in
college...
Mark
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