I think the most serious problem is the size of the frame rails. Most
car trailers use at least 2x6 box tubing , and the 24' & 28' use 8" to
10" box. I would suggest you check some of the trailer mfg. sites for
ideas. Classic Mfg., Haulmark, Wells Cargo, etc.
You could mount the etrack to the rails before you put down the floor to
have access.
Bill
Brad Kahler wrote:
>I'm in the process of converting a 31' Airstream trailer into a
>2-race car transporter. In doing so I've come up with a few
>questions.....(actually more than a few!)
>
>Ok, here's the specifics for the Airstream frame.
>
>3/4" tongue and groove plywood supported by trailer frame.
>E-track to be mounted to the trailer main rails. The main rails
>of the trailer are u-channel 3/32" steel with a box side welded
>in that has perforations (similar to those found in airplane
>wings) for access to the inside of the channel. Some of the
>trailer wiring runs down these main channels.
>
>The main rails are 60" apart center line to center line. There
>are cross supports between the main rails made of the same
>construction and they are 24" on center starting from the front
>of the trailer.
>
>The main rails are approximately 2" wide by 4" deep by about
>28' long.
>
>I think I will have to weld lengths of angle iron (say 1x1x1/8)
>onto the sides of the main rails in order to attach one side of
>the e-track to with the other side of the e-track fastened to
>the main rails themselves. I'd really like to have e-track run
>the full length of the trialer or at least most of it.
>
>Obviously the e-track will be mounted on top of the plywood.
>The airstream has an under belly skin made of sheet
>aluminum. This was done for aerodynamics as near as I can
>tell. In order to remove this skin I would have to drill the pop
>rivets out and then reattach. I'd prefer not to have to go
>through that ordeal if I don't have to.
>
>So the question is, would self tapping screws be sufficient for
>mounting the e-track? For some reason I have my doubts
>but can't put my finger on the reason for that. If it requires
>twice the number of screws if I use self tapping that wouldn't
>be a problem. If I HAVE to use bolts and nuts then I will, but
>I'll gripe and complain the whole time!
>
>Considering that most stress should be in a shear direction
>I'm hoping that self tapping will be sufficient.
>
>The loads involved will be Triumphs. Anything from street
>cars to race cars. I will of course have to monitor the total
>trailer weight and not haul two cars if I'm over the limit,
>common sense has to come in here somewhere!
>
>Odds are the trailer will either haul two race cars, a TR4 and
>a TR3 race car. Or, one street car such as a Mayflower or
>TR4, etc.
>
>Towards the front we plan on building in the provisions for
>having a bath and shower, stove, etc to make it into a living
>compartment as well. Think modular here and you might get
>a feel for the direction we're going. We want a versitale
>trailer that can be reconfigured for either towing our race cars
>to the track or towing a street car to some event somewhere.
>
>The cars will be loaded through the rear where I plan on
>removing the rear section at the last main rib and hinging it
>with hydraulic cylinders to hold it open (as found in
>hatchbacks, etc). I have already obtained a spare aluminum
>rib that was used in the trailer construction and will use that
>to strengthen the hatch portion where it is cut away from the
>trailer.
>
>Any other thoughts or suggestions on this would be
>appreciated.
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