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Re: shop/slab questions, now reinforcing

To: gpd4@juno.com, shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: shop/slab questions, now reinforcing
From: George P Dausch IV <gpd4@juno.com>
Date: Sun, 10 Dec 2000 12:01:40 -0500
On Sun, 10 Dec 2000 07:52:26 -0500 George P Dausch IV <gpd4@juno.com>
writes:
> 
> 
>  Elton, Clark, lotus, tony, et al
>  Understanding that the ACI people have thousands of papers and  
> hundreds of publications attempting to document why it did that, 
>  I'll give you my opinion of the real world for those of us who just 
>  want to roll our creepers.  Based only upon real world experience, 
>  twenty years, million dollar annual payrolls, and trying to remain 
> ahead of the curve.  
>  
>  Concrete includes cement, sand, aggregate, and water.  Mix it, 
> place  it, finish it.  The optional vapor barrier underneath will 
> minimize moisture and future chalking, particularly in a building 
> heated only when in use.  However, it also serves the purpose of 
> keeping the water in the concrete while it is in the drying phase.  
> If you ever touched drying concrete, the chemical reaction creates a 
> lot of heat (and serious skin burns if left on your body while 
> finishing).  By keeping the water from draining out the bottom, the 
> drying process is lengthened, which yields stronger concrete and 
> minimizes shrinking..
> 
> The other part of the preparatory process is the reinforcing.  As 
> the concrete dries, it will crack.  This is a result of shrinkage 
> cause by heat during the evaporation/curing /drying process.  You 
> make an educated guess on future uses, offset it against the dollar 
> cost increase, and hope for the best.  
> 
> High end is a reinforcing bar mat, 5/8" or 3/4" bars 12" on center 
> each way in the middle of the slab.  Great for truck turnaround 
> slabs.  
> 
> Next step down would be woven wire mesh, which most of us are 
> probably familiar with.  Old chain link fence works good too.  
> Whatever you use, it has to be in the center of the depth.  Lying on 
> the ground does not help.  Nor does poking up through the slab, or 
> just under the surface where it rusts and ruins the finish. 
> Both of the above serve to control primary cracking; i. e., hold the 
> slab together after it cracks.
> 
> Fiber reinforcing is just what it's name implies.  Looks like 
> chopped fiberglass matting, also available in bags of what can best 
> be compared to chopped paper clips.  Their purpose is to provide 
> secondary reinforcement.  While we all know the slab will crack, the 
> fibers essentially turn the big cracks into billions of microscopic 
> ones, or yield what appears to be a crack free slab.  Generally 
> around $10/12 a yard, put in the concrete by the ready mix producer, 
> pissed and moaned about by professional finishers because it makes 
> the final troweling tougher, but worth every penny.
> 
> If start with a good subsurface, use a vapor barrier, consider the 
> wire mesh optional (but cheap insurance), use fiber, trowel and 
> finish properly, control the drying process (by keeping the surface 
> wet/damp/cool), you can get a nice slab.  However,  once it's over 
> 600 square feet or so, you still need a 
> control/contraction/expansion joint, because the ambient temperature 
> changes will still crack it in the future.  In theory, you can get 
> it to crack in the joint, which will be caulked at the top anyway.  
> Commercial joints are available for purchase, and you just locate 
> them prior to pouring.
> 
> Little more than a paragraph, hope it helps somebody.
> GPD4
> 
> 
> 
> > 8 Dec 2000 09:22:02 -0600 "Elton Clark" <lotus.tony@airmail.net> 
> > writes:
> > > > 1.  Sweep off the existing to remove loose crap, form the 
> edges, 
> > 
> > > cover
> > > > with heavy mil visqueen, pour at least 4" new concrete with 
> > fiber
> > > > reinforcing  (wire is optional).  This gives you a floating 
> slab 
> > 
> > > on top
> > > > of the original.
> > > > 2.  Sweep off the original, then water blast to remove all 
> loose 
> > 
> > > stuff. 
> > > > Allow to thoroughly dry and form the edges.  Apply a coat of 
> > > concrete
> > > > bonding agent according to directions.  Pour somewhere arond 
> > > 1.5"/2" of a
> > > > very high strength pea gravel mixture with fiber.  This gives 
> a 
> > > bonded
> > > > slab, but counts on the integrity of the existing slab.  
> Cracks 
> > in 
> > > the
> > > > original will migrate upward eventually, even if forced into 
> > > preplanned
> > > > control joints.
> > > 
> > > 
> > > George,  would you do us a paragraph on fiber reinforced 
> concrete? 

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