Here's how I leveled mine:
1 - Set 1x4 edging to mark the outer edge of the walk
Walk had a slope, the edging established the rate.
I used a string to align it.
2 - Cut a 2x4 2" longer than the width of the walk.
Notch the end so it sets over the edging.
The lower edge of the 2x4 drops down by the thickness of a brick
3 - Hold (or attach) a level on the top of the 2x4
4 - dig out the soil as required, and dump sand
5 - drag the 2x4 along the edging to spread the sand
Watch the level to keep it level across the width
6 - spread plastic over the sand
7 - lay the bricks
Alternately, you could edge both sides, level the edging, and notch both
ends of the 2x3. This would entail more work up front, twice as much edging,
but you wouldn't have to watch the level as you drag the sand.
I chose the former method because my walk was close enough to the house
(6") that stability of the inner edge was not an issue.
Rex Burkheimer
Marketing Director
WM Automotive Warehouse
Fort Worth TX rex@wmautomotive.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <sdillen@ca.ibm.com>
To: <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 27, 2000 4:11 PM
Subject: RE: Paving a brick walkway....
>
>
>
> I'm in Vancouver, BC (same rain quotient as Portland), and have had
success
> with the bricks on sand. I generally go several inches thick with the
> sand, and put an edge in to hold everything in place. No problems with
> settling, and water drains just fine. Gene's steps are exactly what I
did,
> but I wasn't smart enough to use the pipe method of controlling depth. I
> kept fitting bricks, pounding them in with a rubber mallet, taking a sight
> on the finished product and re-setting anything that didn't look right!
>
> Steve Dillen
> E-Mail: SDILLEN@ca.ibm.com
>
>
> "Gene Merritt" <merrittgene@uswest.net> on 07/27/2000 03:15:31 PM
>
> Please respond to "Gene Merritt" <merrittgene@uswest.net>
>
> To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
> cc:
> Subject: RE: Paving a brick walkway....
>
>
>
>
>
> As with many projects, details are everything. I doubt that you could
> level
> the soil enough to evenly support the bricks, so you'll need some sand.
> I'm sure the book has the right procedure:
> 1. dig the soil deep enough to account for at least an inch of sand
> 2. remove any loose soil or tamp the soil so it is firm
> 3. screed the sand evenly, using lengths of 1" pipe to control the depth
> 4. arrange the bricks on the sand, keeping them tightly together
> 5. broom sand over the top of the bricks to fill the cracks
>
> Using a edging will keep the layout tight and keep the edges from
drifting.
>
> Don't skimp on the prep work and you'll be happier in the long term.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: shop-talk-owner@autox.team.net
> [mailto:shop-talk-owner@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Mike Lee - Team
> Banana Racing
> Sent: Wednesday, July 26, 2000 2:31 PM
> To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Subject: Paving a brick walkway....
>
>
>
>
> Now that the weather is finally cooperative, I get the joy of putting in a
> new walkway
> and shed. It's not all bad; all the gardening/lawn stuff goes into the
> shed, giving
> me that much more room in the garage....
>
> I'm in Portland OR. It doesn't snow (maybe 1"/year?) or dip below
freezing
> (maybe a
> few days). The "soil" is heavy clay, and a portion of the walkway path
> slopes significantly
> (~7' drop over 50' run). I don't intend to put in any steps, as I'll need
> to wheel the
> mower, etc. up and down this path. I'm trying to keep the walkway as
> simple
> as possible,
> just so I can get back to building my car (and because I'm lazy.... =;^)
>
> I've ruled out concrete, as I don't think I can make it slope very well.
> Also, I'm
> trying to avoid the need to dig out 4" of clay, add gravel, tamp it down,
> etc....
> I've been told by the fine folks at Home Depot that to install a brick
> path,
> I only
> need to tamp down the dirt and lay the brick on top. Is this accurate, as
> their
> own book says I need to excavate, add gravel for drainage, etc? Now, we
> all
> know what
> answer I *WANT* to hear....but what's the right answer?
>
> About the shed, it's going to get built underneath out deck (remember the
> 7'
> dropoff?).
> Due to the spacing of the deck supports, I can only make it about 5'x4'.
> I'm planning
> on getting 4 pier blocks, and casting them into place on top of gravel
with
> concrete.
> I'll be building a shed foundation using .4cca (?) pressure treated wood.
> Other than
> laying down a layer of landscape fabric and maybe a sheet of heavy plastic
> sheeting,
> there shouldn't be any need to add any additional drainage (i.e.
excavating
> and gravel),
> should there?
>
> Thanks!
> Mike
>
>
>
>
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