Mike,
I think you are saying that the fiberglass is located on the angled
underside of the roof, rather on the flat top of the sheetrock. If this is
true, then I think Doug misunderstood you. In my part of the country (NY)
this would be a rather unusual arrangement, as the fiberglass would usually
be located right above the sheetrock to enclose the room in a warm
envelope, and leave the attic cold and usually vented to the outside, to
prevent ice dams. If the fiberglass is above, I would agree that the
plastic should be OK. If the fiberglass is below, the vapor barrier should
be on the sheetrock side of the insulation. If it isn't there, I wouldn't
worry about it, but if it is, I don't think it would be a good idea to
sandwich the insulation between vapor barriers. I don't know how necessary
this plastic is, though, in that the fiberglass usually doesn't rain down
if it's not disturbed. You're not going to be spending a lot of time up
there. It's going to be a pretty dusty nasty place in any event. Just
cover the stuff you're storing, if you want to protect it. I throw on a
dust mask when I'm going up in my attic, if I'm going to be moving stuff
around and making clouds. You probably want to put down some plywood
sheets or something to make a floor. If you're walking around up on the
ceiling joists, one wrong step and... well, it isn't pretty. I used OSB
that I cut into 2' by 8' sections. That was the only way to get them
through my attic stair opening. I screwed them down so I could lift them
easily to run wiring, or whatever else I didn't think of in advance. I
wouldn't go with the pegboard idea... It isn't strong enough to support
much weight as a floor.
-Steve Trovato
trovato@computer.net
At 06:04 PM 2/1/00 -0800, Douglas Shook wrote:
>
>Mike Lee - Team Banana Racing wrote:
>
>> I'm worried that I might
>> be doing a no-no and trapping moisture in there.
>
>Mike,
>
>Assuming that your fiberglass bats have kraft facing on the
>bottom (a paper backing that should be against the "interior", or
>against your sheet rock), that should provide a vapor barrier,
>and trapped moisture should not be a big deal.
>
>If you wanted to be safe, you could lay the 1/8" brown peg board
>across the tops of your joists to make a floor in your attic,
>trap the fiberglass inside and still provide for some
>ventilation.
>
>A good coat of oil-base paint on the ceiling also provides an
>additional vapor barrier to keep the moisture from getting into
>the insulation.
>
>Unless you are using an un-vented heat source in your garage, you
>should not have much moisture problems anyway. The moisture
>problems usually associated with damp attics come from sources
>that put a good deal of water vapor into the air of the house
>(cooking, boiling water, taking long steamy showers, humidifiers,
>etc.).
>
>Again, unless you have an un-vented gas or kerosene heater in
>your garage, you should not be at risk, anyway.
>
>doug
>
>
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