There's a company called MarkerTek (http://www.markertek.com) which sells AV
stuff including a wide variety of sound absorbing material. They carry
official Sonex brand foam, which is the premium stuff, and which is pretty
expensive, but they also carry their house brand called "Markerfoam" which
I've used in the past (to quiet noisy fans in servers placed in offices)
with good effect. Markerfoam isn't too expensive, the 3" thick stuff is
about $30 for a 54"x54" sheet. If you search for "foam" on their online
catalog you'll find both Sonex and Markerfoam as well as a few other
alternatives. They also carry lead foam under the brand name "Acoustilead",
here is the description:
"Why Acoustilead works best. First, Acoustilead is limp and dense which any
good sound barrier must be. Secondly, it is thinner than any other acoustic
material in the same sound transmission class. There's a big difference in
the ways in which sound or unwanted noise can be controlled. Porous
materials absorb sound, but allow it to pass through at only slightly
reduced intensity. Dense, limp Acoustilead, on the other hand, blocks the
sound (prevents it's passage) and surpasses any other material as the ideal
sound barrier. Acoustilead is easy to work with. You can fold it, form it,
and crimp it around pipes, wires and ducts. By hand. You can cut it with a
knife or shears. Staple or nail it to other surfaces. You can readily join
it with adhesives and tape. Acoustilead is as easy to install as it is
effective. What's more, installation costs are much lower with conventional,
stiff materials."
Tw
----- Original Message -----
From: Mike Sloane <msloane@att.net>
To: Shop-Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, March 17, 1999 10:50 AM
Subject: Re: Compressor sound
>
>When I was in the conference room building business, for sound
>absorbtion/cancelling we used have foam rubber panels whose surface was
made up
>of rows of alternating cones and depressions. It looked very much like the
kind
>of foam rubber that is used to ship circuit boards (hard to describe - lots
of
>bumps and dimples that broke up the sound waves). If you could find a
packaging
>supply place, that might be an inexpensive source of sheet material to line
the
>closet walls. As far as ventilation, I suggest a louvered opening at the
bottom
>of the door, about 2 square feet, and an exhaust fan vent to the outside or
the
>attic. If you climate allows it, you could have your intake directly from
the
>outside.
>
>An extra layer of sheet rock will also help to keep the sound down also, as
>suggested. Also something under the compressor feet to absorb the sound and
>vibrations would be a big help.
>
>Mike
>
>Tony Clark wrote:
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Ken Landaiche
>>
>> >Well, I am really trying to eliminate the noise from the compressor
without
>> >building a room outside of the garage. So I'm open to suggestions. Those
>> who
>> >do build an outside closet must provide some ventilation. Are there any
>> >guidelines for that? Can the ventilation in an in-garage closet be sound
>> >baffled in some way. What do you shop-talkers think?
>>
>> On the dampening of sound, I once asked my friend in the field of
audilogy
>> about materials to use for such purposes . . . He corrected my ideas
which
>> were somewhat confused with heat insulation and reminded me that it's
>> density that dampens sound . . lead sheet is good! I'm interested in
>> something dense, fireproof and cheap . . .Maybe some of this "cement
board"
>> that's used to back plaster and tile would be good.
>>
>> Tony
>> (Asphalted felt is fantastic but burns like crazy)
>
>--
>
>------------
>Mike Sloane
>Allamuchy NJ
>(msloane@att.net)
><http://home.att.net/~msloane>
>
>
>
|