Several people requested a report on the results of my search for a
four post lift, so here it is:
After comparing specs from Cytech, Backyard Buddy, and Stinger,
I chose the Cytech for the following reasons:
1. The tracks for the cross bars are inside of the posts, less
likely to catch clothing, get grease on things...
2. The distance between the ramps was more compatible with the
narrow track width of my Austin-Healey and my MGB.
3. The literature package include the full text of the safety
certification report.
The lift arrived on Wednesday and I finished installing it (mostly)
last night.
Here are my reactions so far:
1. The ramps are HEAVY. Getting them out of the truck was a major
effort for my son, the truck driver, and myself. Once out, we used
my boat trailer to move them into the garage.
2. Installation instructions were very good, easy to read, and thorough.
3. The unit seems to be well made and solid. The paint job, welding,
and construction details have a quality look.
4. It goes up and down smoothly.
5. The locking release mechanism caused us some problems during installation.
There is a long rod, two pieces, which runs the length of the power unit
side ramp. The longer section of this rod has to be inserted
through the cross bar from the end oposite the pump. This means
that if you have opted to place the pump next to your garage door
you are inserting the longer rod from the front (wall side) of your
garage. We did not discover this until after we had set up the
front and rear "H"s, and bolted the cross bars to the ramps.
Faced with a choice of redoing that part of the assembly, cutting a hole
in the living room wall, or bending the rod , we opted for the latter.
After a vocabulary enhancing struggle, we did succeed in threading it
through the hole.
5. When threading the cables around the pulleys on the power unit
side ramp, you have to remove the bolts which hold the pulleys
in order to thread the cables over them because there is not enough
clearance between the pulleys and the ramp flange to slip the
cables over the pulleys. The instructions do not mention this.
This inconvenience during assembly actually turns out a safety feature
since it means that the cables cannot jump off of the pulleys once
you have properly threaded them.
6. The lock release mechanism is a week point. The locks consist of
four pawls, one at each end of each cross bar. As the lift rises,
these click over the fixed stop points on the posts. When you
drop the lift, each pawl catches on the next lowest stop point.
The release mechanism consists of a two section rod which runs the
length of the power unit-side ramp. The two sections are joined by
a long nut (about 3") and a set of lock nuts and washers. At each
end, the of the rod is a "T"-shaped flange with two holes. The
power unit end also has a handle attached.
Attached to the T-shaped flange at each end are two rods which pull
the pawls inward so that they do not catch on the stops when lowering
the lift. From where you are standing when you start to lower the lift,
you cannot see if the pawls at the far end of the lift have released.
If the nut which holds the two sections of the long rod together
has worked loose, you may release the latches at one end without
releasing them at the other end. Needless to say, this could have
rather serious saftey consequences.
Aside from this one problem, I am pleased with the quality of
the lift. I will post more comments if anything comes up after
I finish a few more tasks like bolting it to the floor and
actually try it with a car on it.
Peter Schauss, Long Island, NY
ps4330@okc01.jccbi.gov
schauss@worldnet.att.net
1963 BJ7
1980 MGB
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