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Re: Re: Loc-Tite vs. Anti-Sieze

To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: Re: Re: Loc-Tite vs. Anti-Sieze
From: "Nils O. Ny" <n.ny@intest.com>
Date: Fri, 01 May 1998 15:47:42 -0400
At 02:29 PM 5/1/98 -0400, JackiHarry wrote:

>I'll have to add a comment here;  I have had significant problems with studs
>coming out, and sometimes wrecking the threads(in the head), on aluminum
>heads, esp. on the exhaust studs.  Either loctite or anti-seize would help,
>probably, with the threads getting damaged, since this appears to happen from
>corrosion (the steel threads get rusty, and catch and rip loose chunks of the
>aluminum.).  I have had the best luck loctiting the studs into the head with
>removable (222,242) loctite, and putting anti-seize on the nuts. (I *always*
>put loctite on any bolts going into aluminum;  and if those bolts are
supposed
>to be torqued in, I reduce the torque 20-30%)
>
>And I have never had a problem heating up anything I have loctited to
break it
>loose-run an engine to heat it up, or use a propane torch, or oven, or
>soldering iron/gun.  I have used all those methods to get loctited bolts out
>(snapped off or not).
>
>Take care, Scott M Ryan
> 

I'll agree with you 100% an Aluminum head is another matter.  And you are
right it is corrosion that is always a problem with aluminum (and the worst
combination is stainless with aluminum as in boat outdrives).  I would
highly recomment using the waterproof grease and a high temp copper based
antiseize compound to prevent corrosion due to galvanic conduction
problems.   I don't know the chemistry of it but it works much better than
the ordinary nickel based antiseize stuff.

Regards, Nils

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