Ok, now you have my interest as well. I can't see that anyone else has
warned about the hazards of using copper pipe for air, so I will ask the
question. Why not use either schedule M or L copper for air use? I was
initially planning on running about a hundred plus feet from my garage
where my big compressor is located thru the basement into my other
workshop. I opted for a little portable nailer compressor in the shop, and
scrapped the copper based primarily on hassle and cost. What else argues
against its use?
----------
> From: Bob Bownes <bownes@emi.com>
> To: Steve Hammatt <shammatt@sos.net>
> Cc: shop-talk@autox.team.net; corvair@thunderbolt.mitre.org;
bmwmc@world.std.com
> Subject: Re: Air Compresser - Phase 2
> Date: Monday, March 10, 1997 2:44 PM
>
> Steve Hammatt wrote:
> >
> > OK, now that I've got my air compressor,
> > what's the group's collective wisdom on the
> > following:
> >
> > 1. I prefer to run hard copper pipe with sweated
> > connections. I've had mentioned to me to use
> > refrigeration copper tubing because it's stronger.
> > I want to run stick copper. I've looked at "L" and
> > "M" type copper tubing, one is for running underground and
> > is twice the cost of the other. Any suggestions?
> >
>
> Carefull about air in copper. Someone else will no doubt
> tell you why...If not, I'll chime in.
>
> > 2. Source for hose. Local warehouse builder store is
> > around $65/50 ft. I don't have a Harbor Freight catalog.
> > Any suggestions?
> >
>
> Find a local hydralic shop. The one in Albany that's usually 2x
> list on aeroquip stuff has 50 ft hoses for $14.95...In red,yellow, or
> blue.
>
> > 3. Since this is a vetical 60 gal unit (just a weee bit
> > top heavy), I'd planned to secure to concrete floor;
> > any recommendations? anti-vibration pads, how to secure
> > to concrete, etc.
> >
>
> Don't. Mine specifically reccomended against it in the manual. Or if you
> do, do so by lag bolting it to woden blocks, then attach those to the
> floor.
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