Thomas Walter wrote:
>
> Brian,
>
> One the 7 INCH-pound wrench, have you thought of making your own. Seriously
> a small version of a beam wrench. You know, that might be a fun weekend
> project (mill and lathe work).
>
> On calibration:
> I had rigged up an old headbolt... which passes through a block (support
> -- well greased), and the other end is attached to a 25" long metal beam.
> With two holes drilled into it... 24" apart. The old headbolt passes
> through one hole, the other is used to attach a string to.
>
> String is then attached to a simple bucket with a pile of weights in it.
> Measure the weight of the bucket & scrap metal. Attach it to the string,
> so the lever arm is horizontal. Use your torque to measure how much force
> it takes to lif the bucket just off the ground. With the 2:1 (24" b.c. on
> the beam) it is a simple calibration tool.
>
> Oh, sharp readers will note "what about the weight of the beam?" Well,
> rig up a counter weight. ;-)
>
> Oh, I keep my "torque till it clicks" torque wrench in the tool box when
> I rebuild motors. Simple beam unit is all I will use (I do like to FEEL
> the bolts when pulling to torque). Of the click wrench... once I know
> how much it lies to me, I still prefer using it on the lug nuts. ;-)
>
> Cheers,
>
> Tom "never trust a torque to click wrench" Walter
> Austin, TX.
Any wrench becomes a torque wrench by attaching a fish scale to the end,
measuring the length from the bolt and doing inch times ounces. Just
keep everything orthogonal, or adjust for the angle.
regards to all,
Chuck
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