Thanks for all the help Mr Wizard...
Well actually many of you, I received a lot of replies, and most of them even
made sense to me. The general consensus seems to be that whatever the switch
is rated for, that's what you're gonna get no matter what the voltage.
This was all precipitated by my finishing most of the wiring on the GT6 (for
those of you that asked). Never being one to want instant gratification (yeah
right, now act convincing), I got to the point I needed to wire all the
switches, and found that I didn't have enough of any one style switch. Being
a sort of an anti-Colin Chapman sort of guy, (Colin would figure that if the
circuit needed 5 amps, he'd wire it for 4.5, I on the other hand figure if a
circuit needed 5 amps, I'd wire it for 20), I looked at the 12 volt cheesey
all plastic, aluminum metal spade connector, break it in a week switches, and
decided I needed "more power". That's when I noticed the nice all metal,
brass lugged, serious 35 amp 125v AC switches, definitely more my style.
So, I find that I really can't use these switches on the car.
Rats !
So, today I get a serious automotive electrical catalog, and check out the
switches. What I find are some nice serious all metal type switches that will
do the job for me. Great. But, when I look at the specs, I see that one of
the switches has a rating printed on it of..."35A at 6v or 20a at 12v". I
check another..."20a at 6v or 10a at 12v". Dazed and confused I check a
third..."35a at 6v or 12v".
No there are not different part no's for the different ratings, but different
ratings on the same switch ! Yikes! Not to stir up this subject any further,
but " What the Heck is happenin here ?"
Cap'n, these di-lithium switches won't take it much longer...
Nick in a state of confusion
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