Okay, back to heaters...
>BTW -- I leave near Seattle, where the winter isn't too harsh -- it's
>above freezing all night for most of the winter. Sadly, I grew up near
>Ft. Lauderdale, so I consider 50 degrees very cold. One thing we have
>plenty of here is moisture, so the fact that furnaces don't like
>sucking cold, wet air was a good thing for me to know.
This is another question I had about radiant heat in a garage.
Now, this applies more to the garage part, than a separate
workshop area. Does this type of heating result in a high
amount of moisture in the air? Does this cause more rust
on tools, parts, etc.? I would think this an advantage of
heating with a forced air furnace.
Around here (mn) the temperature stays below freezing for most
of the winter (Nov-Mar), and for quite a bit of that, below 0. The
DOT puts lots of salt on the roads. I've considered adding on
to my existing garage by putting another 2 stalls on the front, for
a double deep configuration. If I wall off the new/old part, then I
can keep the old part warmer for a shop, and yet keep the new
part below freezing during the salt months (>32deg + salt +
moisture + car metal = rust) except for brief periods to clean
the car inside, but keep the new part above 0 when it gets
really cold.
With gas forced air inside the old part, I could put a vent with
a thermo controlled damper to feed the new part to regulate
temp there, and separately regulate the old part warmer. In
fact, I could get really crazy, and if the old part started getting
too warm (due to sun & insulation, etc) during the cold salty
months, I could have a separate vent duct in cold air to cool
it back down... :-)
Any comments from other sub freezing (esp sub zero)
shop-talkers?
Chris
ChrisM@pptvision.com
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