The top surface of your bench should match the type of work you do there. If
you do a lot of engine work you may want to consider a metal surface, if for
welding, a combination of metal and refractory material, such as firebrick.
For fine work, such as engine assembly, covering your work surface with
heavy paper taped securely to the bench can prevent many problems.
A good all-around bench top is a layer of masonite laminated to 1-1/2" of
plywood. The masonite can be painted or waxed and may be replaced without
too much difficulty. I think it would be wise to avoid particle-board as a
permanent bench top since despite its weight it has little strength, being
basically resin-impregnated paper.
For some work you may wish to consider a layer of cork for the bench top. If
you do any horological work, repair instruments or electronics, you may wish
to consider a 'drawer' with a fabric bottom that can be drawn out to close
the gap between your waist and the bench while working.
And often times you'll find a 'bench' with no top at all the most convenient
place to work. Such a bench might be a vise secured to a pillar or perhaps a
moveable base, such as a large brake disk or heavy brake drum. The advantage
here is being able to work completely around the thing or being able to move
it where it may be used to support the loose end of some awkwardly shaped
item.
If the bench is to support a vise you may wish to consider beefing up that
corner and securing it to the floor. There should be no overhang on that
corner. If you can find an old post-vise at a jumble sale or the like,
you'll find it well worth your while to build a bench for it. The
floor-length leg, properly mounted, is intended to let you pound on things
secured in the vise, a dangerous passtime with modern vises.
If you do any metal forming you'll probably find wood your best material for
both the bench top and the supporting structure. A top made of 2x4's drilled
for bolts and assembled with Weldwood Plastic Resin glue so as to provide a
4" thick surface, will withstand a life-time of service. The legs should be
solid timber, 4x4 or larger and should be fastened to the floor. Such a
heavy bench insures the energy meant to form the metal actually does so,
instead of bouncing the bench around.
Benches located outside are usually best made of steel, concrete or a
combination of the two. A handy trick making such benches is to weld-up the
legs from thin-wall sections, perhaps 3x3x.065, finish-welding all but the
bench-top, positioning the bench and then pouring the legs nearly full of
concrete before installing the top surface.
The first tool anyone needs is a place to work, with a vise -- something to
hold the work -- a close second.
-Bob
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