Hi Fred:
The 1987 RR Silver Spur is a wonderful car and probably the best RR for the
money. 1987 is a great year without any major problems that I am aware of.
FYI, the Silver Spur is the better car when compared to the Silver Spirit.
The difference is that the Silver Spur has a longer wheel base, has an
ever-flex roof, has the wooden picnic tables in the back seat, and one or
two mirror changes that I have since forgotten. However, the two models
usually do not differ in price much. The following is a more detailed
response to your questions:
I was looking for a used 1993 Mercedes 500e when I stumbled upon a 1987 1/2
(?) RR Silver Spur 20000 series with 40,000 miles on it. The RR is about
the same price as the Benz! $39,500.
Yes. RR usually cost the same if not less than a MB. Reasoning being that
the RR takes a huge beating on depreciation. When new, the 1987 RR cost
about 160K. I have never figured out why the RR never retains their value,
but it creates a great opportunity for the used car market.
1) The car looks fantastic, almost like new. The price seems low. Is there
something lurking inside that is going to bankrupt me?
In the Philadelphia, PA area where I live, the price would be about 45K.
Assuming that the car has a full DOCUMENTED service history and is in good
shape, the price seems to be about 5K lower than I have seen. Make sure
that you talk with the mechanic(s) who serviced the car. Usually they
provide the best source of information (especially when you tip them) and
can verify any service records.
2) Is there anything in particular I should be aware of owning a RR? This
automobile was allegedly only serviced by a RR dealer and all records are
available.
The most important thing to realize is that you can quickly spend as much,
if not more, than your purchase price in repairs if you are not careful.
Make sure that you have a qualified RR (READ ROLLS ROYCE, NOT IMPORT OR
EUROPEAN CAR) mechanic perform a pre-purchase inspection. I would never
purchase any RR, or even take one for free, unless I had the car inspected
before I purchased it. Perhaps the most important thing to check is the
hydraulic system. This is a common problem area due to poor maintenance (or
lack of) by the previous owner(s). A complete rebuild can cost easily $15K.
Make sure that the service history indicates that the fluid was changed, and
replaced with the proper fluid. Also check that the leather and wood are in
good shape and not dried out. This also will cost big bucks to replace.
This of course is in addition to having the car inspected for any accidents,
engine leak down test (not a compression test, this is the better of the
two), inspection of the suspension, etc.
As to other aspects of ownership, be careful driving the car. I have learn
that people go out of their way to get a look at the car when driving and
tend to gawk at the car. The result is that they tend to drift into your
car. This is never a good thing.
3) On the average, what can I expect my per mile maintenance costs to be? I
can do all mechanical work, as long as I have the factory service manual
and the proper tools.
I would not recommend you working on your car unless you have been trained
specifically in RR repair. Reason being that your RR can and will kill you.
Every year mechanics always end up killing themselves when working on the
RR. Usually they are working on the brake system which contains 2500 pounds
per square inch of per. The result is that of a hand grenade going off in
your face. I am not sure, but I believe that the brake system is also tied
into the hydraulic system. As to maintenance costs, not much goes wrong
with the RR if cared for (excluding electrical related problems - remember
that the car is English after all). Brakes are expensive, but as long as
you change the oil every 3K miles and drive the car at least 3K miles a
year, you will be fine. Most of the horrendous bills you hear about are
"restoration" bills on the wood, leather, carpet, engine, hydraulic system,
etc when people do not maintain their car or just let it sit unused. The
worst thing to do is not to drive your car. The RR has more seals and
gaskets than any other car and need to be used so that these seals and
gaskets can get lubricated. I would drive at least 200 miles a month
(highway miles if possible and at temperature) to prevent any seals or
gaskets from drying out.
4) Are service manuals available? What does one cost?
N/A
5) As for special tools, do any members "share" their tools with other list
members?
N/A
If you have any more questions please feel free to contact me.
Ken Ross
Kdross@msn.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rolls-bentley@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-rolls-bentley@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Fred_J_Konchan@foodbrands.com
Sent: Monday, March 08, 1999 8:37 AM
To: rolls-bentley@autox.team.net
Subject: First Purchase of a RR
Hi everyone! Forgive me if I do not follow list etiquette; this is my first
posting.
I was looking for a used 1993 Mercedes 500e when I stumbled upon a 1987 1/2
(?) RR Silver Spur 20000 series with 40,000 miles on it. The RR is about
the same price as the Benz! $39,500.
1) The car looks fantastic, almost like new. The price seems low. Is there
something lurking inside that is going to bankrupt me?
2) Is there anything in particular I should be aware of owning a RR? This
automobile was allegedly only serviced by a RR dealer and all records are
available.
3) On the average, what can I expect my per mile maintenance costs to be? I
can do all mechanical work, as long as I have the factory service manual
and the proper tools.
4) Are service manuals available? What does one cost?
5) As for special tools, do any members "share" their tools with other list
members?
Thanks in advance.
Fred Konchan
Wisconsin, USA
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