Jack:
I used a 75 chev half ton p u front end under my 55-1st p u including its
power steering pump that went well removing 1.25" from the center of the
cross member allowing bolting to the frame using original 75 front end bolt
holes with tapered shim filling space between bottom of frame / x-member
holding original 55 front wheel centerline. Also used the 75 motor mounts
with modifications that somewhat boxed the frame for support.
Per experienced front end mechanic the drag link end & and power steering
pump were shimmed out .62" each from the frame to use the original drag link
as is saying it is now square with something?? concerning the bump steer
issue.
Used the drag link as is, cutting .50" off each of the 4 tie rod end
threaded ends & new adjuster sleeves were about .75 shorter than original's
allowing not running out of adjusting threads.
Have not been on the road yet but front end lined up to his satisfaction
with steering fine around parking lots & trailer loading.
Hoping this might help,
Jim
55-1st P u
Eatonville, WA
-----Original Message-----
From: oletrucks-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:oletrucks-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of boedigheimer
Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2012 10:33 PM
To: oletrucks@autox.team.net
Subject: [Oletrucks] Power steering rack
I am at the end of my rope on this one. In building my 1949 GMC I took a
79 Chev 3/4 ton front end and narrowed several inches out of the middle.
It mounted well and looks like cast , camber , toe, and bump steer will
be acceptable. Of course I cant use the original drag link and tie rods
since it is narrow so I got a rebuilt steering rack from a 1998 Dodge
Dakota thinking the same width, should be easy to mount. I got it fit up
and working and all was well until I hit the steering stop. The left
seal blew on the rack and leaks oil. Tryed another rack same issue.
Turned the steering pump relief valve down to about 700 psi and thought
I had it this time but no, when it hits the stop on a right turn, the
seal began blowing oil out the left side of the rack. there is no
binding or such and the system can be turned by hand with the engine
off. I don't understand why it would blow the seal consistently.
I am hoping for some ideas from you all or suggestions of issues I may
have overlooked, or options instead of the Dakota rack...
Thank you
Jack Boedigheimer
Saint Paul, Oregon
long time lurker....
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