I have a 55-1st pu that I installed a GM 12 bolt from a 75 1/2 ton pu -
little stouter than the 10 bolt thinking I may pull my 18 ft boat some day
if I ever get the pu on the road.
Went well - had posi installed while re-bearing it ( V8 ) - measured old
axle housing for spring width for new spring / axle brackets . Replaced my
springs ( one broken ) and all pivot points. Locals wanted close to $300 for
a new drive shaft / balanced / u-joints. I got a perfect ( Ford Explorer I
think ) shaft the correct length from a wrecking yard ( was told to push the
front u-joint all the way into the transmission - measure between the
u-joint yoke centerlines - subtract 3/4 " & thats the driveshaft length at
its yoke centerlines ( normal weight on the truck suspension ) - had new
u-joints installed to match my truck for $125 including driveline. Best to
take in the driveshaft, front yoke & measured the rear yoke as close as
possible for u-joint match ( knowing year / model helps but some times more
than one size )
Hope might help,
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gale Gorman" <gale_gorman@mac.com>
To: "Bob Keeland" <keelandb@yahoo.com>
Cc: <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 01, 2010 6:18 PM
Subject: Re: [Oletrucks] Swapping out rear end on '52 GMC 1/2 T
> In a back issue of Auto Restorer there was an article about just that and
> the recommendation was the GM 10 bolt that is extremely common and
> durable. They were used in cars, vans, trucks, etc. I haven't checked the
> numbers but I'm pretty sure that's what I have in my '54.
>
> --
> Gale Gorman
> Houston
>
> On Apr 1, 2010, at 6:04 PM, Bob Keeland wrote:
>
> I've heard that the rearend out of a 4x4 Chevy Blazer will work nicely.
> Anyone
> else know about this?
>
> BobK
> 51 3100 5-window
> 54 3600 in pieces
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