I am not sure whether this has anything to do with the grounding issue, but I
learned on my 6 volt system that having the largest and thickest power cable
from the generator to the battery is crucial.? For the longest time I had
charging problems event through my generator was newly built.? I did some
research and spoke with my brother, and I determined that for the lesser 12
volt cables will not do.? They are smaller and thinner, and do not carry as
much power as the thicker ones do.? Well, this is fine for a large 12 volt
battery, but when you use such a cable on a 6 volt system it falls short.?
?
This is all by way of background on the grounding issue.? I wonder if a
larger, cleaner, grounding cable (clean all contact points, including the
frame area to bare?metal,?and put the red electrical grease on) would help to
better establish the ground to avoid to dimmer headlight issue.? Just a
thought.??
?
Victor
'55 Chevy Panel (1st Series), former 54' Chevy P/U owner
-----Original Message-----
From: wayne osborne <wayne@chevytrucks.org>
To: Oletrucks@autox.team.net
Sent: Fri, Feb 12, 2010 11:55 am
Subject: Re: [Oletrucks] My Trucks
You're spot on Jay with the grounding ideas.. Some things as a fellow was
told me are still low-tech, basics is still basics and gotta have good
grounds... --wayne
-----Original Message-----
From: oletrucks-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:oletrucks-bounces@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of
AJT-JCTrains-JCTrucks
Sent: Thursday, February 11, 2010 2:17 PM
To: 'Mac Kinghorn'; Oletrucks@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Oletrucks] My Trucks
Mac,
Most of the time when headlites are weak it's a grounding issue. Yes voltage
might read good but the ground isn't good enough ,, period!
OK.... lets see: The battery is prolly grounded to the motor..great! But
since the motor is or should be sitting on rubber mounts and the body
is/should be mounted on rubber mounts,,, are the headlites really grounded
properly? So,,, I would suggest temporarily run a separate ground from the
negative side of the headlites directly to the negative post on the battery.
If this increases the candlelite of the hdlts then you know there is a
problem, ground issue.
If the above cures the problem as a test... you must ground the body to the
frame, then the frame to the motor. When working with these elder vehicles
you will have rust and corrosion in places you cant see which will cause a
break in the circuit. Another cause is when we install wiring harnesses, we
think that's it, we finished, hit the key and hold your breath! EVERYTHING
works!
The wiring harness people don't always include grounding straps for body to
frame and frame to motor. I like those OLD flat braided negative battery
cables, they are flexible, easy to hide and come in different lengths.
I'll shut up now and let some of the younger guys throw in their high tech
ideas! j/k
Jay
East Texas
Secondly I have an issue with my headlights and their dullness,
especially in low beam. Everything seems to work okay, voltage is right,
wiring harness was upgraded when rebuilt, headlights have been aligned but,
to
me, way to dull. Any ideas on how to get them up to proper brightness.
They
are 7" round Halogens.
Oletrucks@autox.team.net
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